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Anastasia TR 
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Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 
Kashmir S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
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On the Loose TR 
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Thai Stick S 

The Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 104
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 16, 2008

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This route lies between Red Eye and Critical Mass. It ascends up a skiny black streak, using edges and slopers. The crux comes just after the second clip and consists of a hard sloper move, but some tricky crimps just before are hard too. Approach from Thai Stick or Mr. Bentley and clip the bolt left of the Thai Stick anchors or the anchors themselves. The next bolt is a bit spooky and hard to clip. Finish the route to the Red Eye anchors or into Kashmir. There is a piton between the last bolt and the Red Eye anchors.


The route is located on the Red Wall, just above Thai Stick.


Bolts. The old, terrifying bolt was recently replaced with a SS 1/2" bolt. The old bolt is still there until we can get a saw out to cut it out, but there is a new one next to it to use.

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By peachy spohn
Sep 15, 2008

After the sloper "crux" it is possible to reach out right to a large hold on Critical Mass. This makes the route easier, because one can shake out and chalk up. The route through this section is therefore contrived...the grade given represents moving through the route without the hold to the right. Either way, it is still a fun and energetic route.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 24, 2014

Is this the old route called "The Conspiracy"? described as squeezed between Red Eye and Critical Mass. Originally graded 11+?
By peachy spohn
Oct 26, 2014

@ Micah Klesick, it appears to be called this in Mr. Olson's 2011/4th Edition to the Portland Rock Climbs. I can say that the main bolt on the climb is old and rusted and every time I clip it my heart begins to beat a little faster. Also, there is a way to escape to Critical Mass, but even by doing this escape I feel the grade is harder than 11+. If you avoid Critical Mass (yes, somewhat contrived) then the grade is stout 12b. I have been climbing it since 2008 and probably should replace the bolt, because it is fun and should see more traffic! Hope this helps and hopefully I'll get around to changing out that bolt for next season.

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