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Let's Get Physical 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alex Karr, Deb Orth, 1988
Page Views: 1,049
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


The name is appropriate! Up to the 2nd roof is probably 5.10ish. You'll find you don't need that much gear as there's a secure pod in the vertical crack above the 1st roof. When you reach the 2nd roof, get up into the ceiling and place your #3 deep so it's out of the way for the lip moves. Continue traversing aiming for your last hand holds right at the base of the lip. From here, invert, throw your leg over your head, and find some crimps inside the right wall of the wide crack to help you do a sit up. Once you figure out how to get vertical again, the climb eases up. (Be careful not to place pro in the wide section as you pull the lip, it completely gets in the way of your legs). The #6 Camalot will protect the last wide moves once you're established.


The obvious wide crack system that goes through 2 roofs. Around the corner to the left of Underfling.


1" sized cam, only in the horizontal below the 1st roof will help to reduce drag from the first roof. #3/#4 camalot for the vertical corner. #3 camlalot deep in the 2nd roof. #6 Camalot after pulling the lip. #2 camalot for top. Bolted anchor.

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