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The Talon
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Let The Peacock Fly S 
Little Stephen S 
Where Eagles Dare S 

Let The Peacock Fly 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 28, 2016

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Talon topo from the west.

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Description 

The slightly-overhanging and impressively sheer west face of The Talon is comprised of excellent glacier-cleave rock. Peacock offers engaging moves while they last, but the holds veer right (or really, straight up) to intersect the trivial, low-angle south edge of the wall, making for a disappointingly brief line that effectively ends at the third bolt. A directissima — avoiding the right edge — would be excellent and hard, though hopelessly contrived and arbitrary. Still, as it stands, this line is a fun, roped boulder problem on great rock in a spectacular setting.

A few easier moves lead off the ground to a long crank to the obvious, horizontal seam. Match, then bear-hug up opposing sidepull rails that end at a long, crux throw to a crystal horn. Bigger holds appear as you near the slanted lip. Choose your own difficulty as you work up and left towards the anchor at the apex of the west face.

Location 

This climbs the super clean west face of The Talon.

Protection 

4 bolts to 2BA. A stick clip is recommended.


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