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Choppin' Block
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Let The Good Times Roll 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Scott Strong on Sep 1, 2011

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Description 

Route is located on the face to the right of the crack. Start on the overhang and climb up the folds on the face.

Protection 

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


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By Mark Pell
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This is also by the late Kirk Holladay. You can begin by clipping the first bolt on "Choppin' Block" and doing a fun little rising traverse to the right if thorny bushes at ground level have you blocked for the normal direct start. Conveniently, this also keeps the rope out of the leader's potential fall line from bolt 2. From a flat-footed stance about 10' up which is easy to return to until you're ready to fire, work out a series of open-handed 'palmer' moves going up and slightly right over a mild bulge, looking for a secret two-finger letterbox hold at an extended reach. Eventually you will have to commit to reefing on this hold and making another long reach to further palmers (the 'good times rolls') with minimal footing in this section. The reward is increasingly square then blocky holds above and a timely and secure clip stance. Finish with a moderate well-protected mantel onto a larger blocky foothold. Stand up and you're at the anchor.

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