|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Brad Smith, Eric Johnson '81|
|Submitted By:||Orphaned on Jun 20, 2007|
|Comments on Lesson in Discipline||Add Comment|
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By Brad Parsifal Smith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 22, 2010
Eric and I had a vision for this route long before rap-bolting was practiced in North America. The distance between protection points was due to our own uncertainties about rap-bolting. We thought if we were going to place bolts on rappel, and not on hooks as was common then, we had better leave lots of space between them.
One early guidebook entry describes our ascent as a siege. I would hardly call what we did as a siege. After bolting the route, Eric tried the first attempt. Remember, this was before people spoke in terms like on-sight and red-point. We had rappelled only to inspect the line, clean the loose flakes, and determine the best places for the bolts. Neither of us rehearsed any of the moves. Eric placed the pieces in the crack, moved onto the face and had just reached the bolt where the angle of the rock relaxes toward vertical. At that point he faintly uttered I cant hang on and came hurling off the route to stop, hanging upside down, at eye-level with me. The fact that the belay is off a raised portion of the rock higher than the ground and that the face is slightly overhung, means that a fall, while potentially a bit long, is all air.
Eric considered his effort finished and I went on to lead the climb without pulling the rope from the pieces placed in the crack. I remember reaching the first bolt and being unable to press the gate of the carabineer open in order to clip in. That was my first experience with serious forearm pump. I had to press myself against the rock and shake my arm until I could get the gate open. I dont miss those Chouinard Ds!