Lesser Spire Rock Climbing
A proud pinnacle of rock, one of two prominent points seen directly to the east of the Topp Hut. It is a relatively lesser known crag in the Organs, with only the briefest mention in Dennis Jackson's 2006 NM guidebook, and a vague description of a route on the NW ridge in Ingraham's guide. Climber's heading to the Lesser Spire can get the feeling of climbing the unknown. As viewed from Southern Comfort Wall
there are some inviting big-cracks on the north-west face. The south face is steep and shaded and offers a few excellent climbs and more potential. A rewarding tiny summit makes for a great outing.
Approach from the Topp Hutt and hike directly to Southern Comfort Wall
. From the bottom end of Southern Comfort follow the trail slanting to the right and step over the edge into the canyon long before the middle of Southern Comfort. Go under the bottom wall, sticking to the rock as closely as practical. There is a bit of a trail there with some sections sliding into the canyon, but still better than alternatives. Eventually you get to some trees and run out of trail when you are only 20 feet or so above the gully bottom. Go down on the rocks and up the canyon for no more than 100 feet.
Scramble up the other side, then traverse left toward the rocks. Stay on the slabby apron, just below the steeper part. Eventually the rock will become a trough and then a gully. Keep going up until a ridge appears on the left. Cross the gully to the left (see photo) and go up the rock on the other side. Stay under the left wall or close to that until it runs out. Continue up over rocks in the same general direction and you will find yourself again under the left wall. Keep going there or up the gully to the right of it staying generally left all the way to the saddle if going to Normal Route, or short of that for routes on west face.
Allow 1.5 hrs for the approach for the average hiker.
Deproach: The best way down is to drop into Rabbit Ears Canyon. Head pretty much directly down the gully. Once in the canyon, the way down is much easier and can even be done in the dark without too much of a problem.
Climbing Season For the Rabbit Ears Area area.
Weather station 10.3 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lesser Spire
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lesser Spire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lesser Spire:
Cacahuate 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A1- Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 450'
Featured Route For Lesser Spire
West Face of Lesser Spire 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NM
: Organ Mountains
: ... : Lesser Spire
p1: go up the large crack, past the bolts (typically aided so 5.8 A1) and then a bit more (the squeeze) to a stance on the right (longer pitch).p2: go up then left and wander a bit looking for a stance to the right of the old eagle's nest.p3: go left near the eagle's nest, up a steep head wall then right to a corner and stance on the north face.p4: this is primarily a long traverse left and up the upper north face of Lesser Spire, staying below the major roofs above.p5: finish up by climbin...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
BETA PHOTO: Approach. Crossing to the left here is one of the ...
BETA PHOTO: The canyon between ORP and Lesser Spire
Lesser Spire (right) and ORP as viewed from the su...
Lesser Spire as seen from Southern Comfort Wall. [...