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Leslie Gulch

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Asylum, The 
Einstein, The 

Leslie Gulch Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.33778, -117.31209 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Brennan Crellin, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: CHopwood on Mar 8, 2015
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Kathy Yaniro on Iron Lung (5.11+), Leslie Gulch P...

Description 

More Central East Oregon than North but this seems the best place for. With its incredible beauty and as much rock as Smith or City of Rocks, this should be an epic destination for climbing. However, Leslie has a complicated history. Many years ago, local climbers decided to make their own private outdoor gym and drilled routes into two overhanging, blank faces (Einstein and the Asylum). Due to their actions, a bolting ban was initiated and there were discussions about removing the offending routes. The routes and bolts remain and, if you don’t mind pulling some drilled pockets, there are many excellent routes ranging from 5.11-5.14. There are also some great trad lines and incredible potential for many new trad lines to be established on the beautiful walls and towers in the park. Just keep in mind that no new bolts or fixed protection is allowed. The rock is the same tuff as Smith Rock and similar in quality (not great in places). For more beta about trad lines and other routes, visit boiseclimbs.com/i84west_area.h... My intention in posting this is not to cause controversy; it is only to educate climbers about Leslie and get some more people to check it out! Hopefully, in the future, a reasonable management plan will be established that will allow all recreation users to enjoy this amazing place.

Getting There 

From I-84, take the exit 33A for Highway 55 south. After 15 miles and passing through the town of Marsing, turn left on Highway 95. Another 20 miles, turn right on McBride Creek Road (there is a sign for Leslie Gulch). Follow the signs for 25 miles, until you reach the gulch.

Climbing Season

For the Northeastern Oregon area.

Weather station 10.5 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Leslie Gulch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Leslie Gulch:
Dung Beetle   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   The Einstein
Girls Don't Fart   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   The Einstein
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Leslie Gulch

Featured Route For Leslie Gulch
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah on Dung Beetle

Dung Beetle 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Oregon : Northeastern Oregon : ... : The Einstein
Long route that many people use to warm up. Starts with a couple burly moves to traverse out onto a slightly less than vertical face. Get a no-hands rest here, then launch straight into the crimpy crux. Continue up the wall on small crimps and pockets to chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Photos of Leslie Gulch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leslie Gulch, Idaho  Photo by Rudy Hofmeister
Leslie Gulch, Idaho Photo by Rudy Hofmeister
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for The Einstein and Asylum North Face, Lesli...
BETA PHOTO: Topo for The Einstein and Asylum North Face, Lesli...

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