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Les is More 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Les Ellison and Brian Smoot
Page Views: 2,559
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (125)
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Pocket Change!

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


A reasonably fun route with jugs, pockets, and stemming. Climb 8 or 9 feet to a ledge, clipping a bolt just below the lip of the ledge. Continue up on pockets and edges until after the sixth bolt; move left and stem in a dihedral to the top.

The hard part for me was after the fourth bolt. Two-finger pockets, an insecure sidepull and a difficult-to-commit-to, reachy move to the next bomber pocket.


On the west face of Division Wall, this route is to the right of the obvious dihedral. It starts below a ledge about 8 or 9 feet up; the first bolt is just below the lip of the ledge.


7 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos of Les is More Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: just waiting for the crux!
just waiting for the crux!
Rock Climbing Photo: Robert MacKinnon leading Les is More.
Robert MacKinnon leading Les is More.
Rock Climbing Photo: great 5.10
great 5.10
Rock Climbing Photo: Les is More
Les is More

Comments on Les is More Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 29, 2016
By Robert MacKinnon
Jun 4, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great pockets on nice limestone!
By Tosh Peters
From: Park City, UT
Jul 24, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

this is a really good 10a. one of the best at the grade ive encountered.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Don't forget to jam and stem at the top else its a bit harder!
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jun 21, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Decided against stemming to keep it interesting, which made it quite a bit harder, especially since the rock is fairly polished on the face. A good division warmup, but nothing special.
By jzp
From: Pleasant Grove
Jun 12, 2012

be careful on those two deep pockets in the middle of the climb, i was using the one on the right as a deep under-cling with my torso above the hold, my foot slipped on the polished face and i almost broke my wrist
From: Texas
Jul 17, 2012

Really fun. Lots of diversity with uncommonly deep pockets, stemming, and some unique hand jamming at the top. I thought it was pretty hard to be a 10a, maybe we were doing it wrong.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 19, 2013

I've lost track how many times I've done this one as a warm up...
By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 20, 2014

Two options exist for the crux at the 4th bolt.
Skirt left for 10a, or head right for the harder version.
By apross
Nov 20, 2014

and I bet you went left:-)
By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 21, 2014

Was that some sort of political joke? ;)
By Matthew Colemere
From: Alpine, Utah
Nov 29, 2016

Hitting the crux head on is really fun, and has perfect two finger pockets.

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