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Les Copains d'Abord 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 51
Submitted By: Sergey Shevelev on Oct 19, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The name of the route.


Grades and lengths according to guide book (translated to YDS):

1. 5.10a, 33m
2a. 5.10b, 35m
2b. Traverse via static rope
3. 5.10b, 38m
4. 5.9, 35m
5. 5.10a, 25m

Looks like there are additional anchors on the P3 . If you don't pay attention to the listed lengths and use them, you may end up either with 6 pitches or a pretty long (60m) P5 in which case not only you won't be able to see your partner but likely have problems with voice communication as well.

P5 Seems to have the sharpest rock of them all.

Suggested rappel is the same as for Modeste route. When you reach the top walk to the right a hundred feet or so to the cairn marking the top anchors of Modeste route. Guidebook details rappel as follows:

1. 40m
2. 20m
3. Walk 20m to the right
4. 40m
5. 40m

Be careful as the wall has a lot of vegetation and good potential for stuck rope, especially if you use 2 shorter ropes instead of one 80m rope.

Guidebook also suggests a walk off towards Ourania and Simplegades if you want to skip the rappel, but I don't know how long this is going to take as it doesn't look like there's a well defined trail.


Route name is painted on the wall


Fully bolted

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By ethannowak
Mar 29, 2017

TLDR; about one hour walk-off; don't count on the fixed line as of 4/2017.

We did this route the other day and thought it was great. Note that the fixed line for the traverse is significantly melted out at the end you get to last; I stayed on belay and left a draw for my second.

We only had a 70m and there was a party below so we walked off instead of messing around with rappels. After the climb, head over the last blocks to the top of the ridge, then E-SE until you find a line into the gully below that doesn't cliff out. Once in the gully, the trail isn't super defined, but you just follow the drainage until you come to some water collectors, and the paved road back to Myrties. It took us about an hour to get back to the TH where we'd left our scooter.

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