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Les Copains d'Abord
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
Routes in Gerakios - Trois Ilots
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1995 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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1995 Ext S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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3eme Age S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Albatros S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Allez Gros S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ari Cover S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Balga S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beach House S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Birdie Kiki S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bises to Kate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Boubie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chiara S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chimney S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chirlipipi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Climbing House S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crystal Line S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Cumulo sinus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cunilin gugus S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Delice Choc S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Doctor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Egale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eh Ma Tomme S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Emilie Jolie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Epidixias S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Express Haut S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flag S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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G.D.Gaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gabou S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gast S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ginette S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grueffelo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hannah S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hole in One S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Il Posto S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Iron 8 S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Kipete Trop Vite Chie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kitsos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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KWAD.9. S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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L.A.O.T.C.O. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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L.H.O. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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La Raie Publique S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Lafete Alm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Les Copains d'Abord S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Les Pros se tatent S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Little Gio S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Léa Rico S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Mimi et Lolo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Minion S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Modeste S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Modeste P1 Variation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Needle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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O Claire de I anus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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O!WI.O! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oh! Dieu S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Oh! Dieu Ext S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Open Book S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Open Book Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oxèo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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P'tit Pwason S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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P'tit Waso S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Par 3 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Par 4 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Par 5 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pepite Haut S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Petain Coup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pornogeros S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Port S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pouce Twalda S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Prosciutto et Champagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Qeen Couine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reader S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rita S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rowan S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sacha S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sandy Kilo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sharp S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stefanos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Telpu S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Titis Blue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Trip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tèntonne Pas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Up Wall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zio Gio S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 901 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Sergey Rurik on Oct 19, 2015 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Grades and lengths according to guide book (translated to YDS):
1. 5.10a, 33m
2a. 5.10b, 35m
2b. Traverse via static rope
3. 5.10b, 38m
4. 5.9, 35m
5. 5.10a, 25m
Looks like there are additional anchors on the P3 . If you don't pay attention to the listed lengths and use them, you may end up either with 6 pitches or a pretty long (60m) P5 in which case not only you won't be able to see your partner but likely have problems with voice communication as well.
P5 Seems to have the sharpest rock of them all.
Suggested rappel is the same as for Modeste route. When you reach the top walk to the right a hundred feet or so to the cairn marking the top anchors of Modeste route. Guidebook details rappel as follows:
1. 40m
2. 20m
3. Walk 20m to the right
4. 40m
5. 40m
Be careful as the wall has a lot of vegetation and good potential for stuck rope, especially if you use 2 shorter ropes instead of one 80m rope.
Guidebook also suggests a walk off towards Ourania and Simplegades if you want to skip the rappel, but I don't know how long this is going to take as it doesn't look like there's a well defined trail.
1. 5.10a, 33m
2a. 5.10b, 35m
2b. Traverse via static rope
3. 5.10b, 38m
4. 5.9, 35m
5. 5.10a, 25m
Looks like there are additional anchors on the P3 . If you don't pay attention to the listed lengths and use them, you may end up either with 6 pitches or a pretty long (60m) P5 in which case not only you won't be able to see your partner but likely have problems with voice communication as well.
P5 Seems to have the sharpest rock of them all.
Suggested rappel is the same as for Modeste route. When you reach the top walk to the right a hundred feet or so to the cairn marking the top anchors of Modeste route. Guidebook details rappel as follows:
1. 40m
2. 20m
3. Walk 20m to the right
4. 40m
5. 40m
Be careful as the wall has a lot of vegetation and good potential for stuck rope, especially if you use 2 shorter ropes instead of one 80m rope.
Guidebook also suggests a walk off towards Ourania and Simplegades if you want to skip the rappel, but I don't know how long this is going to take as it doesn't look like there's a well defined trail.
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