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Barrio de los Gitanos
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Les Chacales S 
Lola L1 S 

Les Chacales 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
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Page Views: 151
Submitted By: LeeAB on Oct 30, 2009

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Description 

Very cool climbing on thin tuffa fins and pockets. Easy start to a bouldery crux then pumpy climbing on good holds with long reaches to the anchors. On the red-point you will wish the anchors were lower, they are a bit higher than they seem like they should be.

Climb easily up past 4 bolts to a rest then execute the crux moving right around the arete to another rest. Move through technical moves to a jug on the arete. Make a powerful move up then physical climbing out left then up and back right onto the obvious thin fin. Move up this to a spike hanging out of the roof. Rock hard right to jugs on the face. Contemplate why the anchor is not just to your left while you rest. Make about 4 or 5 moves up the face on sharp edges to the anchors.

Fun movement, both physical and technical in spots. While locals claim that this is a bouldery route it still packs quite a pump. Many fun holds and a nice runout to the anchors.

Location 

This route start off of the ledge that traverses out right onto the wall. It climbs the face up to a blunt arete feature and up to a small roof which is passed on the right.

Protection 

10 bolts or so to a bolted anchor.


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