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(1) Northeast Face
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Leper Messiah 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave McRae and Jazmyn Cotrufello, 8/27/2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 464
Submitted By: Dave McRae on Nov 1, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Derek Craig on Leper Messiah

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>


Tough second clip for shorties, crux moves on either side of the last bolt. Like Orion to the right, this face currently suffers from a slight case of leprosy. Tread lightly.


Second bolted route to the right of the King Nothing chimney. Third bolted route left of Asterisk Pass.


10 bolts to chain anchors. If using a 60 meter rope, tie a knot in the end to lower off.

Photos of Leper Messiah Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leper Messiah
Leper Messiah
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo map for Master of Puppets area
Topo map for Master of Puppets area
Rock Climbing Photo: Jazmyn doing work on our new route
Jazmyn doing work on our new route
Rock Climbing Photo: Drilling on Leper Messiah
Drilling on Leper Messiah

Comments on Leper Messiah Add Comment
Show which comments
By Erik Keever
Nov 4, 2015

On the final stretch, is the "proper" move to bank right & sidle left along the crack ledge to the anchor? I sort of felt I'd cheated myself out of the true crux by doing this afterwards.

Because it's new & "the" sequence isn't chalked, made for an interesting onsight... At times I felt like I was almost over onto Orion before cutting back left.

Love me this nubbin crawling though!
By Dave McRae
Nov 8, 2015

Erik, If you clipped all the bolts and made it to the anchor, I'd say you were on route. The easiest sequence for Leper Messiah shares a few holds with Orion from one-third to mid-height. Thanks for leaving a comment. Way to get after it!
By bbuker
Feb 16, 2016

I had the pleasure of on-sighting this one within a couple weeks of it going up. Climbing straight up the bolt line and clipping at chest level felt all of 10c to me, especially at the last bolt. But with the lack of chalk marks I was probably missing something. Regardless, a very fun sustained climb. Be prepared for a constant rain of pebbles when belaying.
By Dave McRae
Feb 24, 2016

Thanks for the feedback bbuker. This climb originally felt more like .10d to me. As with the climbs on either side of it, Leper Messiah gets cleaner, more solid, and overall easier with each ascent. A handy little two finger pocket seems to have popped up out of nowhere to assist in clipping the last bolt. It's not manufactured, just newly discovered and cleaned. Give yourself credit for the .10c tick, and expect Leper Messiah to get cleaner and more solid as time goes on.

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