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Leominster State Forest

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Edges and Ledges T 
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Leominster State Forest Rock Climbing 

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Location: 42.51954, -71.85606 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,094
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JD1984 on Jun 3, 2013
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A decent outcrop of rock can be found on the adjacent hill to the popular Crow Hill Ledge. The longest route goes at about 45-50 feet, and there is much loose/chossy rock. The cliff is approximately 100 feet wide and has steep faces, a couple large roofs, and a dirty chimney/ gully climb. Great care should be taken in watching out for loose rock and placing trad protection. Helmets are a must due to the rock falling potential and the fact that the mid-state trail runs across the top of the cliff.

Getting There 

On Route 31, park at the dirt pullout across from Crocker Pond (small brown sign). Take the blue blazed trail up the hillside until it intersects with the yellow blazed Mid-State Trail. Take a left onto the Mid-State trail and follow until you reach an obvious stone staircase leading to the top of the rock outcrop. Halfway up the stairs take a left at a large fallen tree onto a climber's trail that follows the rock face. Approximately 150 feet in, you will find the obvious taller face. Do NOT cut left before the fallen tree as the rather large talus field is quite hazardous (found that out the hard way). I placed a large square stone in the broken stump of the large tree to help identify it.

Climbing Season

For the Leominster Area area.

Weather station 5.2 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]

Featured Route For Leominster State Forest

Gulla Gulla Gully variation 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  MA : Leominster Area : Leominster State Forest
Begin the first portion of the dirty gully to a ledge on your right. From here, go up the clean face to your right at an obvious, large flake feature placing gear as you go. Approximately 20 feet of fun face climbing gets you to a top-out and tree anchor. Only one hold appears to be loose, but it didn't pull off when I used it. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

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By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 3, 2013
I believe this cliff has been overlooked primarily because of loose rock; however, there is some fun climbing to be had here for the safety conscious climber.
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Jun 18, 2013
Is this also the cliff thats mentioned in Boston Rocks also right behind a house?
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 19, 2013
No. That is Redemption Crag. This cliff has been overlooked constantly for what I can only figure to be the perception that it is a crumbling pile of crap. We've found a few decent climbs though, and one is actually quite good, with pumpy moves and decent pro.