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Len's Roof 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Len Margolin, ~1972 (on TR), 1st lead- ???
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,365
Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 3, 2007

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George Perkins cranking through the discomfort. Ja...


Strenuous, possibly painful hand jamming out the crack in the center of the big roof leads to easier crack climbing above. The roof, and the rest of the climb, protect well with hand-size cams. The crux is getting your feet up and around the lip of the roof.


This route follows the hand crack in the center of the huge, obvious roof on the right side of the main wall. Shown as route number 25 on the Overlook route topo photo.


1 or 2 each #1 and #2 camalots, for the crux; and a #3 camalot.
Tape is recommended.
Most people will not need to place more than one piece of pro before the roof, and if you're ok with running it out on the 5.4 above the roof, you don't need any cams bigger than #3 camalot or any nuts or any small cams.

Photos of Len's Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on Len's Roof. January 2011.
Matt on Len's Roof. January 2011.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ken Cohegan
Ken Cohegan

Comments on Len's Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 22, 2009

Painful indeed! Ended up bleeding pretty good on this one, but it hurt sooo good. For those with big hands, the pain may be worth the security of the jams - taping up made it feel a lot less secure, albeit a lot less painful. If you don't want to carry anything larger than #2 camalots, opportunities abound above the roof for 0.5s and .75s.
By Michael Wheat
Jun 28, 2010

I managed to send it with out Jamming the roof. Once you figure it out YOU WILL LOVE THIS CLIMB!

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