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Lena's Lieback 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen.
Page Views: 3,595
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 30, 2006

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Looking down from the first ledge.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Lieback up the smooth left facing corner on the far right side of Swan Slab, to a ledge with two bolts.
Either rappel 80' or climb two more pitches to the top.
Usually people only climb the first pitch.


Pro to 2.5".

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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 30, 2008

Polished! Shady. Often crowded by regular parties, but I don't think I've ever seen YMS use it for guiding (as they do for the cluster around Oak Tree Flake etc on most days).
By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good first 5.9 lead- protects well.
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Polished from thousands of feet. Good fingerlocks and liebacks; crack eats stoppers as pro. Nice afternoon climb on a hot day as it's in the shade.
By rex parker
From: las vegas n.v
Jul 20, 2011

the first pitch is amazing, climbed the second pitch odd traverse left, after traversing for about 10 feet you come to a boogyboard size flake that would fall if you farted to loud. rope drag was damn near inevitable. the belay ledge was big. we decided not to climb the third pitch because the crack was chossy and full of moss and lichen. we exited skiers left and hit the drainage gully.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

You can link the last 2 pitches as one with a single 60m rope as long as you are careful with rope drag. Selective pro placement, long slings, and flipping the rope over the corners helps. Upper crack is work doing. Not too dirty, and the flare requires some thinking to figure out the moves.

The second pitch does have an interesting large flake that is suspended in space by being pinched between the wall and a projecting flake. Don't place pro in this thing!
By Rodger Raubach
Oct 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The last 2 pitches are not very enjoyable, and I recommend the 5.5 exit right, after pitch one. I've done it both ways.
By Robert Coleman
From: Seattle, Wa
Apr 27, 2016

the first pitch loves nuts
By Connor Newman
From: Reno, NV
Apr 30, 2017

I'd say the top two pitches are worth doing, link them together with slings as stated above and you won't have any problems. The final flared crack looks dirty but actually climbs nicely.

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