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Lemonhead S 
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Whatchamacallit S 
Zagnut S 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Daryl Allan
New Route: Yes
Season: Year round
Page Views: 1,534
Submitted By: Daryl Allan on Feb 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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First bolt


First line right of Zagnut. Route starts up an easy scramble past one bolt up to a ledge. Clip up from there and pull over the overhung lemony goodness to a well-earned, one hand rest. Either go the more direct left way up [left] from there or smear up the slab out to the right, through a small dihedral [crux] and arrive at the anchor.


Currently, the right - most route on the wall.


8 bolts, chain anchors

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Rock Climbing Photo: Pucker up!
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By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Only climbed this on toperope a few times but this route is by far the best one on the wall. The first roof crux is a blast once you find the moves. Really just a good hard fun route.
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Super, super fun! Lots of varied climbing. Start with a hard roof then lieback the crack to the left or go up on impossible slab to the right. After lieback move right across hard thin slab to final roof. Good luck on the roof! Love this route!
By pheindel Heindel
Jan 9, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

My partner almost took my head off when he pulled a softball sized chunk of rock off just above the second overhang. He claims it did not change the difficulty of the climb, but be aware that things might be flying off this crag trying to kill you - wear a helmet!
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Apr 7, 2011

There's still some loose stuff around the exploded hold on the first bulge, so watch where you grab.

Also, there is some pretty crappy fall potential at both of the bulges on the route, where some of the hardest climbing is. You should be solid at the grade, which is more like 11b than 10d.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 26, 2011

Moved three bolts last weekend: one at the bottom crux to accommodate the changed sequence where the key side-pull broke and two at the top to accommodate all the whining from people afraid to take a friggin' fall over 5 feet (just kidding!). The fall at the top crux, while previously clean (i know, i took it many times), is now much, much safer and less scary than before. However be prepared to clip from a small crimper mid-crux. Don't worry though, blowing this one will land you in a clean fall zone out to the right down vertical face away from the mild ramp below the dihedral.

Thanks to all that gave input on this over the last year or so and thanks to Angel for working out the fine tuning on bolt placement for those 5'10" and below :). With the way the bolts are now, this is a super fun and very thought-provoking (read: hard to onsight) route for the grade.

And I'm only playing about the whining, etc. Those that know me know that I put up routes for others and not just for me. That being said, I want them to be safe and enjoyable for everyone for many years to come. We knew when we bolted SR that there would be negative comments about the quality of the rock but the last couple years of intense traffic has cleaned these routes up more than we had hoped for.

Oh, and we cleaned up the bottom bulge substantially.. Many thanks Christian and Eric for the input! There may be some little things come off here and there but I spent quite a while finding and prying off several features that have loosened since the route was put up.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 11, 2011

Thank YOU for all your new work on the route..Look forward to getting back on it :-)
By Red
From: Tacoma, Toyota
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Crux moving by the last bolt!
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Dec 21, 2012

11 B is probably a good grade if you do the left finish. The right finish is significantly harder than the first crux, and significantly harder than Zagnut. I've climbed more than a few routes in Cochise. Welcome to the sandbag.
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 26, 2012

There's a 'right' finish? Does that entail moving out onto the face at the 2nd to last bolt and going straight up? Sounds hard. lol!
By canyonwren Lisa Levine
Jul 26, 2015

For climbers in the 9 to 10 range: Great intro to the strength, moves, and mindset needed to toprope 11s.

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