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Rough Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bromance S 
Cousin It T,S 
Dead President T 
Eve of War T 
Guantastic T 
Junk Ride, The T 
Lemon Squeezer T 
Maximum Impaction T 
Rough Rider (thanks d-ron) T 
Solar Impact T 
Tabeguache Tower T 
Uncle Fester T,S 
Waxing Gibbous T 
Unsorted Routes:

Lemon Squeezer 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 348
Submitted By: stan wagon on Nov 9, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The Lemon Squeezer starts in the slot at left.

Description 

This is a slot canyon, usually climbed in sneakers with no rope. The crux is a chockstone near the end that one must jam up and over. When one reaches the large open air area after leaving the slot, one has three choices:

1. End as most people do by descending the class 3 gully; or

2. Cut back up and right to higher ground and an elegant Bonus Slot to reach the top of the hill, or

3. Enter a very deeply cut slot with a difficult move (5.8) to surmount. We call this variation the Iron Lung because of the extreme tightness. The variation was, we think, first done by Bill Briggs and Stan Wagon in March 2015. From the end of that, one would also finish with the Bonus Slot.

For options 2 and 3 one can descend easy ground directly to the stream crossing near the car.

A detailed trip report is at the first two links here

Location 

From the Mica Mine Trailhead, head down to the trail junction and then down Rough Canyon for under a mile. After a 3rd class drop near a pouroff, the trail traverses a large ledge. Soon after this ledge, head up and right to the start of the Squeezer. The start is located at

(38 degrees, 58' 49.9", 108 degrees, 37' 20.9").

Protection 

All this is usually done with no protection.


Photos of Lemon Squeezer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan Kriegel in the Bonus Slot, well above the...
Jonathan Kriegel in the Bonus Slot, well above the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stan Wagon in the Iron Lung slot variation at the ...
Stan Wagon in the Iron Lung slot variation at the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan Kriegel surmounting the crux, not too far...
Jonathan Kriegel surmounting the crux, not too far...
Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway through the route one comes to a spectacul...
Halfway through the route one comes to a spectacul...
Rock Climbing Photo: Welcome to the Dark Side.
BETA PHOTO: Welcome to the Dark Side.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stan Wagon at the top of the Squeezer's crux.
Stan Wagon at the top of the Squeezer's crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: A Google Earth image showing the various choices.
BETA PHOTO: A Google Earth image showing the various choices.

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