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Lemon Resevoir-Transfermation Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bunch of Farceholds S,TR 
El Pero Loco S,TR 
Once We Were Warriors S,TR 
One Flew Over The Gooseberry Bush S,TR 
Rattus Floridus S,TR 

Lemon Resevoir-Transfermation Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.46082, -107.68026 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 734
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Elder on Jan 18, 2016
Forecast:
Today

42° | 31°
Wednesday

42° | 26°
Thursday

28° | 12°
Friday

27° | 13°
Saturday

33° | 21°
Sunday

34° | 24°
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BETA PHOTO: Racking up at the base as seen from the cozy hang....

Description 

This is the buttress on west side of Florida River downstream from the main West Side climbing area. It is made of granite, and it gets morning sun and afternoon shade.

Getting There 

From the intersection of CR250 and Florida Road (Bread), follow Florida Road east for about 12 miles. Stay left at a signed intersection and continue on CR243 for about 5 more miles to reach a gate at the north end of Lemon Reservoir. Follow signs to Transfer Park Campground, and park at Burnt Timber TH. Hike through the lower campground loop of Transfer Park Campground to the USFS service hut, and cross the meadow heading south. The buttress is right next to the river on your right.

If you want to access the top of the crag for setting topropes, turn right into the upper Transfer Park campground loop, and go to the end of the loop. Cut up and east to the top of the crag. See individual route info for access to their anchors.

Climbing Season

For the Durango area.

Weather station 5.6 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Lemon Resevoir-Transfermation Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Between the cruxes on first ascent.

El Pero Loco M5+ PG13  Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Lemon Resevoir-Transfermati...
Climb obvious dihedral to the right of the chimney (Rattus Floridus). The first crux is the slightly overhanging section near the top of the dihedral. Easier climbing follows, then you get a second crux on a slightly overhanging wall. Finish with easier climbing to the anchor (shared with Rattus Floridus).The anchor is accessible from the top. Hike south and down, then contour around a ledge system about 10' below the top. Keep contouring around unti...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Lemon Resevoir-Transfermation Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chimney on left is Rattus Floridus and adjacent di...
BETA PHOTO: Chimney on left is Rattus Floridus and adjacent di...

Comments on Lemon Resevoir-Transfermation Buttress Add Comment
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By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Jan 5, 2017
Note that if you climb here in the winter, you will have to ski/snowshoe/bootpack it in 2.6 miles. Took us around an hour. It makes for a great ski, especially with the dogs.

There's a great hangout at the base, under a big tree.