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The Grendel
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Leitner Route 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, 2003
Page Views: 582
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Keen Butterworth OS of Leitner Route.

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a slab route of good quality, but it seems to be the shortest route on the cliff. It will challenge those shorter than 5'10". Some such folks will argue for a 11-ish rating.

Go up and right on a ledge to clip the 1st bolt. You can back down to the ground to add a few more moves. Pull onto the slab, make a high step with your right foot, and stay in balance. Move your feet up high with small hand holds. Reach far and right to a relative bucket and find a balanced position to clip the 3rd bolt. Move back left and then continue up on easier terrain to the anchor.

Location 

This is right of Mother Grendel and left of Strong Arm Tactics of the southeast face.

Protection 

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rings.


Photos of Leitner Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug makes a high step right to get into the meat ...
Doug makes a high step right to get into the meat ...

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By Silverplume
From: Colorado
Jul 9, 2017
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

It's rather debatable whether the opening moves of this route are anywhere close to .10c for folks under 6 feet tall - getting past the first two bolts felt much harder than Strong Arm Tactics .11a to the right. If you fall before making the second clip, there's very real decking potential.

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