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Legend of the Fall ("LRP" Variant) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Aaron Miller
Season: warm
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Aug 3, 2013

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A candid moment with Ian as he gets into the busin...

Description 

Trad-climbers will love this one.

This may become the more popular variation of LRP, as shorter reachers may opt for the direct line through the roof.

Climb 4th-class to second bolt, traverse right into OW, then back onto face and up through deceivingly tricky bulge (pulling bulge not the hard move, save your celebrations) to large ledge.

At the second bulge crux from the ledge clip a high bolt then you can choose to pass it via the obvious and classic overhang-undercling or stay low and traverse left below the bolt on face holds. fortunately, you can take your time from the ledge figuring this one out, there is no right answer.

Location 

Same start as for "Look Reach Pull" but head straight over the first roof bulge (5th bolt) to enter a completely different and challenging 40 foot crux section before rejoining the original line again at the top.

Protection 

11 bolts and anchor


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By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Aug 15, 2013

Jean De Lataillade pulled off a large block on one of the early ascents of this route from the upper easy section just below the anchor. Took a 30'+ whipper! The block had been overlooked by the FA party and a couple ascents thereafter. It was just sitting there waiting for the unsuspecting micro-tug.

Be careful! When in doubt, at any crag, use a GriGri(or SUM) and a helmet and belay close to the wall.
By Keith Beckley 1
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Apr 25, 2015

Trad climbers will love this one! Very interesting moves back and forth with jammng rests to an exciting and exposed finish! Climbs WAY better than it may appear from the ground. Highly recommended.

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