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Enigma, The T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Left Up 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stan Wallace, Ron Cousins, Jim McEver, 1973
Page Views: 3,357
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Left Up climbs a great finger and hand size crack just left of Stage Ledge. This climb serves as a great introduction to Looking Glass granite. Be careful the feet on the beginning of this climb are polished.


Left up is located just left of Stage Ledge, Bloody Crack, etc. Look for the obvious finger/hand crack that climbs to a ledge


Standard NC rack (finger/hand sized), runners, single rope. Slings on the tree.

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By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
May 29, 2007

Another potential LG ankle-breaker! My partner and I went for this route as our "warmup" for the day and got a rude awakening on the start. After three slides off the start and one sore ankle, I threw in the towel and we went for an easier warmup. I imagine the friction is better on the start when the weather is cooler, but even so, I think the moves off the deck are more in the 5.9 range.
By ziggy
Aug 11, 2009

saxfiend nailed that one. i would recommend having someone in your group pack in a crashpad if you are going to be climbing at the southside. left up, right up, and bloody crack are all great candidates for ankle breaking. and as was mentioned before, the opening moves of all of these climbs are polished and more difficult than the grade would suggest. I am no slab climber, but i felt like the opening sequence was about a 5.10 and the rest of the climb was more like a 5.5. I guess that averages out to 5.7?

If you are opposed to having a little gear beta for this route, then please stop reading now!

Once you get to the first decent stance you can place a bomber #1 camalot in the obvious pocket you can see from the ground. move a little higher and you can get a somewhat marginal small cam, i believe i used a #1 metolius tcu. This will get you beyond the crux and I think it would save you any major injuries if you were to slip off. From here the gear is plentiful and bomber. You can absolutely sew this thing up all the way to the top with tricams, stoppers, tcu's, and slcu's. You will need two ropes to get down.
By Joseph Brown
From: Mt. Olive, NJ
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route leads to an expansive ledge with bolted rap rings shared with two other popular routes, "Good Intentions" and "Right Up".

To save my ankles, I usually lead "Good Intentions" and setup a top-rope anchor on the wall just below the ledge to work the other two routes as well as variances in between.

I've rappelled this ledge with a 60m single rope, so unless your rope is short, I wouldn't sweat using two ropes to get down.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

I'm surprised how many folks "toe the line" and rate this 5.7. I'd say it's much harder.

A stick clip, or climbing the casual line to the left then traversing on the ledge to set up a TR would be a good idea. We were there for 5 hours or so and saw 3 different people deck on this route. Luckily there wer no injuries.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011

FUn Warm up and Introduction to the South Face of Looking Glass. Don't let the bone breaking reputation get to you, its all there and more. That being said, first moves are slick and you will probably break your ankles if you fall, a crash pad would be a nice accessory on this route.
By nate3265
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

its a great climb. but its really a V1 bolder problem below a 5.5 climb. spotters are a must and a bouldering mat makes you feel a lot better.
By Johnny O
From: Wilkesboro, NC
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I have to admit that I was humbled on this route myself. I figured 5.7, it will be a walk in the park. I found out otherwise. Luckily, I had a good nut placement down low so I did not deck. I did start over from the ground and pulled through on the second attempt but I was really amazed at how tough the start was.
By Russ Keane
Oct 2, 2016

The ground is scary, but I would still say that the moves are 5.7. Maybe 5.8 if you want to modernize it. (read: gradecreep). If this sequence was higher up with good pro at your waist, there would be no controversy.
By Becky Borden
From: Columbus, OH
Jun 13, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I just climbed at LG for 5 days, and leading the crux move of this route was one of the scariest parts of the whole trip! Agreed, if the sequence were higher up, it wouldn't be as scary, but the move still felt more in the 5.10 range to me. The rest is like 5.5.

It's a fun, quick little climb to hop on, but it felt like a one/two-move wonder.

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