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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Art of Dreaming, The S 
Bedtime Story S 
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 
Bobsled, The S 
Caffeine Buzz S 
Chore Boy T,S 
Daily Grind, The S 
Golden Slumber T,S 
Lucky Strikes S 
Morpheus T,S 
Mr. Sandman S 
My Buddy S 
Napster S 
Not So Obscure T 
Opener S 
Sleepless Child T,TR 
Sleepless in Boulder S 
Smell the Coffee S 
Snooze Button S 
Something Obscure T 
Tooth Fairy S 
Wake Up Call S 
War On Freedom S 

Left Side Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.00668, -105.40689 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.

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  • Description 

    These routes are on the left side of Plotinus Wall, from My Buddy on the left to Lucky Strikes on the right. Mr. Sandman (10b) is a popular warm-up route. Lots of excellent sport climbing here!

    L->R:

    A1. My Buddy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts. Start up in L gully.
    A2. Bedtime Story, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
    B. Sleepless Child, 1p, 90', 9, gear. Follow crack through tree.
    C. Morpheus, 11, 1p, 100', 8 bolts, gear. Long RFD.
    D. Wake Up Call, 10, 1p, 60', bolts. Steep slab.
    E1. Snooze Button, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Bulge and slab.
    E2. Chore Boy, 10, 1p, 100', bolts, optional gear.
    F. Smell the Coffee, 10-, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab to roof.
    above F. Caffeine Buzz, 8, 1p, bolts. Above F or G.
    G. The Daily Grind, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts. Slab, overlap, seam.
    I. Napster, 10, 1p, 40', bolts. Flake.
    J. Something Obscure, 10-, 2p, 140', gear. Funky crack.
    K. Tooth Fairy, 11, 1p, 90'?, bolts. Dihedral.
    LK. Opener, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
    M. Mr. Sandman, 10, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
    N. Golden Slumber, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts, small-medium cams. Layback, face, thin crack.
    O. Sleepless in Boulder, 11-, 1p, 90', bolts.
    P. The Art of Dreaming, 12, 1p, bolts. Traverse R.
    Q. The Bobsled, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts. Behind tree.
    RQ. The Bobsled Direct Start, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
    S. War On Freedom, 13-, 1p, bolts.
    T. Lucky Strikes, 12, 1p, bolts.

    Getting There 

    Follow the approach directions for Plotinus Wall, which takes you to the wall just below The Scientist. Then head uphill to your route. The path is loose and eroded, so be careful.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.9 miles from here

    23 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',13],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Left Side

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Left Side:
    Mr. Sandman   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Chore Boy   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Snooze Button   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Smell the Coffee   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Wake Up Call   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Napster   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
    The Daily Grind   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Golden Slumber   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Morpheus   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
    Sleepless in Boulder   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
    The Bobsled   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Lucky Strikes   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    The Art of Dreaming   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    War On Freedom   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Left Side

    Featured Route For Left Side
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lorant starting Sleepless (back in Feb '08).

    Sleepless in Boulder 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : Left Side
    Sleepless in Boulder starts just left of The Art of Dreaming. Climb up a short corner to an obvious horn. Power up steep rock, laybacking to a good stance. Make nice face moves and continue up the steep face past several bolts to cool moves up and over a bulge to a hard move on a small arete. Climb past the arete using a thin crack on the left and arete on the right. Float to the anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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