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S-Curve - The Pile
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Left Pile 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Merrill Bitter, Mike Beck 1989
Page Views: 3,543
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 9, 2005

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Left Pile


Once at the Pile area, this route is directly to the right of Gomer Pile and shares anchors with it. Getting up to the third bolt is pretty easy, with it being 5.10 climbing. Clipping the fourth bolt is a challenge as you're on a small, somewhat slopey hold. After that, is the crux of the climb, then huge jugs the rest of the way up.


7 draws.

Photos of Left Pile Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: shot from up the hill from pile. onsight attempt
shot from up the hill from pile. onsight attempt

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By WasatchChic
From: Salt Lake, Utah
Aug 6, 2008

I think this route is fantastic! One of my favorite 12's. I used a right undercling on the crux, that had zero chalk but was actually pretty good and an intermediate to get to the clipping crimps.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jun 20, 2011

Really fun climb. Dyno past the 4th bolt off the crimp to the somewhat hidden jug up and left. Great ending move.
Sep 9, 2011

Cool route. One move wonder at the top.
By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 20, 2012

I really like this one! It's got a really cool tricky clip followed by a big move off a crimp.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Sep 14, 2012

Clip the 4th bolt after getting to the semi good left side pull, then go to the right hand crimp - lunge for the jug then clip again. Timing those clips is crucial. Also make sure you put an extended draw on bolt 4. You don't want the rope/biner getting pinched on the rock there.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 20, 2013

Definitley not a 1 move wonder. 5.10 climbing till past the 3rd bolt, then a difficult clip, and a true 6-8 move boulder problem (V4)is encountered. There are many ways to do the crux, V4 is the easiest it gets. Going direct up the small crips and big moves makes this a great 12b for a 13a climber.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 1, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I agree that it is mid 5.10 to a V4. The crux bolt is hard to clip. Clip the 5th bolt once the crux is over from above when hands are on a large, flat jug. The top 15 feet is trivial 5.8. I used to do the boulder problem with undercling sidepulls. My sequence used a drop knee and step throughs trending left. I have not seen anyone else do the crux the same way that I liked to do it, and I spent a lot of time at this cliff running laps on Right Pile in the summers. There are many options for the boulder problem crux, most more powerful than the way that I did it. Either way the last move is a long huck from a half-pad incut crimp to a full hand flat jug. I have seen maximum 5.12b limit endurance climbers feel sandbagged on this climb. Solid V6 boulders' will have no problem on this one.

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