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Head Up Activity S 
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Idiot Savant S 
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Jackpot S 
Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) T 
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Wild Card S 

Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: at least by the 1970s
Page Views: 3,263
Submitted By: Teigon S. on Aug 22, 2011

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Mark in the crack.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This route is located in the crack directly left of Cracker Jack. I originally was going to traverse over to the anchors on the top of Deuces Wild, but when I got up there were old hangers on the needle. They looked as if they were placed a while ago but hardly used. Excellent Clear Creek trad!!!

Per George Bracksieck: sometime in the early-to-mid '70s, I led a partner up the obvious long right-facing dihedral that divides the Deuces Wild area from the Stone Cold Moderate area.

Eds. This is a combination of submissions, combined here to avoid confusion due to duplication.


Start on the shelf at the base of Cracker Jack and follow the obvious crack over the roof. Rap from either the chains at the top or do a fun hand traverse over to the top of Deuces Wild.


Awesome at the cruxes, but run out the last 30 feet. I used up to a #2 Camalot and only a few nuts. Bring plenty of slings if you're scared of the runouts.

Per George Bracksieck: SR, maybe with large hexes and/or cams.

Photos of Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top.
Near the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo courtesy of guy in fedora hat. I will take m...
BETA PHOTO: Photo courtesy of guy in fedora hat. I will take m...

Comments on Left Long Moderate Dihedral (originally submitted as Crack Swindler) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Teigon S.
Aug 22, 2011

Thanks for the anchors, and I also thought it was 5.6-5.7 but the people I had top rope it thought it was harder. Glad you like the name! Thanks again!
By Andrew Mayer
From: Driggs, ID
Apr 30, 2012

Climbed this one day last week. Fun little outing but not worth bring a rack up to high wire for IMHO. Also felt more like 5.7.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I thought this was about 5.7 except for one move at the top near the anchors which I thought was 5.8-.
By George Bracksieck
Jan 27, 2016

I climbed this in the '70s, then we walked off.
By Siddhartha Rathod
Aug 26, 2016

I think the Capps Clear Creek Canyon guide calls this "Beginners on Crack, 5.7 R *".
By Mitchell Hall
Sep 25, 2016

Yes ^ that book lists it as "Beginners on Crack". You don't need to bring a full rack, just a couple small Aliens and maybe #0.5 to #2. I placed 4 pieces, could have placed 7 or 8. Fun, little crack!

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