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Hoss Garden
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
First Night at Fight Club T 
I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes S 
Keep it Heavy T 
Left Hook S 
Right Hook S 
Steiger Sanction, The S 
Upper Cut S 

Left Hook 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Clay W, Drew B, Alex L, Anthony N
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, fall, summer
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: tenesmus on Jul 9, 2017

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Description 

A crimpier version of Upper Cut. Loads of jugs interspersed with crimps and slimpers, slopers and the cool kind of funk. Near the top, you'll need to commit to left or right. Both are super fun but you'll need patience to keep it at the grade. Some people say its .11a because they didn't. Some say its .10b because they did. So .10+ it is.

Location 

You could start on Upper cut but mostly, we're just walking up the 5.4 ramp to the bottom of the face. This climbs a lot closer to the arete on this face but don't confuse it with the upper third of Steiger Sanction.

The anchors are hidden from view and about 7' left of Upper Cut and Right Hook. It is really easy to clip the biner on the long chain of this anchor, scoot across the ledge to clean the draws on the anchor of UC and RH. Be sure to go back and use both biners when lowering and feel free to replace them if they get worn. Its nice to have them there for now.

Protection 

6 or 7 bolts and chains.


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By tenesmus
Jul 9, 2017

The variations on this one are super fun. Lots of holds all over the place but make sure you know where you're going. Its really fun to clip the second or third to last bolt then cruise right over the top couple of bolts of Upper Cut.

The left finish of this helps you stay on crimpers as you warm up for the .12's to the left. We often lead the tens, lower to the mid-point and TR back up with variations as we warm up. (Watch your swing because this gets engaging!)

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