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Routes in 8-Moynier
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Blocks to Ridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Gully to Ridge Right side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Center High Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Center Low Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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NorthEast ridge Direct S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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NorthEast ridge Left side S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 587 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jul 31, 2017 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Thoughtful face climbing.
Roughly straight up to the directional bolt which is below right from the cliff-top left-end anchor.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
Roughly straight up to the directional bolt which is below right from the cliff-top left-end anchor.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
Location
On mid-level ledge a ways left from the Shade Bush, roughly under the directional bolt which is below right from the cliff-top left-end anchor (which is well left from the cliff-top central bush). Near the bottom of easy ramp which goes up left.
- - > See on this Photo
- - > See on this Photo
Protection
Fixed protection only top anchor. No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.
Top anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chain with ramshorn lower-off.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Lower hanger + ramshorn (pigs tail) lower-off are 316 Stainless steel. 6-link chain + quick-links plated steel. Installed 2018).
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.
Top anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chain with ramshorn lower-off.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Lower hanger + ramshorn (pigs tail) lower-off are 316 Stainless steel. 6-link chain + quick-links plated steel. Installed 2018).
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
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