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Left Flake 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: all year
Page Views: 1,902
Submitted By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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left flake

Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.



A fun route up a right-facing dihedral with a small finger crack. Fun moves up the crack, with the crux about 1/3 of the way up the crack.


Route starts on a large ledge directly above Boogaloo Direct. Rap anchors on top, and at the base. Climb starts at the left-most end of the ledge.


Standard rack (a few small-med cams), bolted anchor

Photos of Left Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting at the anchor, move left and up the right...
BETA PHOTO: Starting at the anchor, move left and up the right...

Comments on Left Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Jun 2, 2008

I thought this route was a bit trickier to protect than the Right Flake.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jun 1, 2009

For some reason, this wasn't as good as right flake. Still not sure why. It is good early lead.
By Brandontyrrell tyrrell
Apr 3, 2010

double BD .5 & .75 will help, and I placed a 1 master cam
By Eric Holden
From: Temecula, CA
May 26, 2011

There is a new birds nest right at the base of this route, watch out as momma bird has been very protective.
By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Jan 30, 2012

I used a few nuts, a couple of the C3 cams and one or two C4 cams (.5 and .75) and felt like I sewed it up pretty good. I loved this climb, you can stay in the crack or use a combination of crack and arete edge holds, can't wait to get back out there and take another spin on it.
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 16, 2012

very good route, eats up the small stuff.
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
Sep 22, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Don't feel like you need just small gear for this one. I placed a .75, a 1 and a 2 camalot along with 2 nuts. I felt the protection was as easy or easier than right flake.
By TacoDelRio
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Nov 2, 2013

Small cams work great on the flakes. I have WC Zeroes and BD X4's. I place these as well as a #1 and #.75 C4 on left flake, and smaller C4's on right flake.
By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Jan 20, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great route with fun lieback fingers and great protection on pretty sticky granite. I used bd c4 2x#1, a #2, a .5, a .75 and mastercam 00, a mc 3, and I clipped a couple stoppers that were stuck in crack. A fun easy lead. Prob not 5.7 compared to Tahquitz or Joshua.

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