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Unsorted Routes:

Left Edge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,370
Submitted By: Michael Walker on Aug 16, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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BETA PHOTO: Left Edge, on the Dome, taken from the bridge over...

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  • Description 

    Start at the base of a large ramp left of The Owl. Scramble up the ramp with thoughtful pro to avoid immense rope drag as you traverse left under the huge roof. There is a couple of very old battered pins at the start of the traverse, I ignored them - they looked too dangerous to trust. Set up a belay at the left edge of the roof at a comfy ledge. Pitch 2 - There are a couple of choices from here: above the belay is Gorillas Delight 5.9+ [old school 9!], traverse further left to a 5.5 crack or do what we did and go for the 5.7 crack that starts just left of the belay ledge. Step left off the safety of the ledge and get down to it! The 5.7 crack start is the sketchiest part of the climb - I stabbed a 3.5" in the crack and my heart settled down a bit. The crack above is choice hands and fists. Great!


    #3.5 was very useful

    Photos of Left Edge Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on The Dome:  1. Prelude to King Kong    Le...
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on The Dome: 1. Prelude to King Kong Le...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Dickson on the first pitch.
    Jim Dickson on the first pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: View from atop an alternate finish.
    View from atop an alternate finish.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back down at the second pitch's crux.
    Looking back down at the second pitch's crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Robinson on Left Edge.
    Mike Robinson on Left Edge.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Popping over the A shaped roof.
    Popping over the A shaped roof.

    Comments on Left Edge Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Andrew Gram
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    May 11, 2002

    I thought the 5.7 second pitch was far far harder than any other 5.7 I've done in Colorado, and some of the 5.8s. Decent route, but an awful lot of wandering for 5 tough moves.
    By Chris Mueller
    May 30, 2002

    You can also start this route about 75 feet below the 5.7 crack, left of the A-shaped roof and the large pointy flake. Cruise left up the ramp to an undercling and make a fun move through the first wall. Angle right to the bottom of the crack, a #4 camalot is nice to have here. Continue as from the first belay in the original description. The route can be done with a 50 M rope in one pitch with no rope drag this way.
    By Kevin Currigan
    From: Lakewood
    Nov 13, 2002

    Before you leave the belay ledge you can sling a wobbly chockstone with a 4' runner about thigh level on the right side of the 5.7 crack. The moves up the crack are pretty airy but there are good hand holds on the left and jams in the crack.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Feb 28, 2004

    The direct start to the 5.5 finish doesn't seem to be mentioned above. This makes a very nice and obvious, aesthetic line, but perhaps is S for pro. Climb the open book to the left of the regular start, approaching it via the blunt arete on the right. This leads to the left edge of the roof and into the second part of the dihedral. The climbing is easy, since it's low angle, but there's not much for your hands or for gear, since the crack is closed off and/or rounded. You get good gear every 15' feet or so--bring double green to red Aliens or the equivalent.
    By farkas.time
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Aug 14, 2011
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Fun. Good pro. Easier 5.7 than others on this crag. Belay spot at top of 1st pitch is less than ideal, but not too uncomfortable. Be prepared to get creative.
    By Tim O
    Jun 29, 2017

    Agree you should do this in one pitch. My partner lead the second pitch, and after a couple tough moves right at the belay (the hand crack), the route quickly becomes third class.

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