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2-Gerstenegg
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Left Center Crack TR 
Left Double-Flake TR 
Left Slab TR 

Left Double-Flake 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 117'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: kenr on Oct 25, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Gerstenegg sector : left center C. Left Double-Fla...

Description 

Low crux is thoughtful. The rest is easier, but much is still interesting.

P1: Up over the double-flake, then roughly straight up, staying in between the easier crack/gully on left and easier crack/gully on right, up to big ledge with some small trees and bushes.

P2: Easier scrambling at first, trending right to go up big left-facing corner. Exit this corner to the right, then finish ten to fifteen feet right of bare tree about 8-10 inches wide and 10-12 feet tall.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

Vertical double-flake which is five feet wide at bottom, higher is seven feet wide. To its left is a 10-inch wide crack then foot-wide vertical flake, which is the left edge of the face. To its right 4 feet is an obvious vertical crack, and 8 feet right from that is gully with funny-shaped rocks in its middle.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

Top-Rope? Access to set up top anchor is difficult. If belaying from the bottom, putting top anchor at the top of the cliff requires an 80-meter rope, so many parties will prefer to put a top anchor at the middle ledge.

For ideas how to access top or middle ledge of cliff, see instructions on the Description page for Gerstenegg sector .

Lead: Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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