REI Community
search
Practice Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Magic 
Left Crack TR 
Lieback T,TR 
Regular Route T,TR 
Thin Crack T,TR 

Left Crack 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,847
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The same for the first 20 feet as Thin Crack. Start out up the obvious crack running up and left. Move up to the top left corner of the roof. The large bulge to your left as you start is off limits, for those keeping score. Move out over the roof, and follow the crack up and right up to the finish.

    Protection 

    Long slings, and I mean long (2 fifteen footers would be perfect). For trad lead, cams below the roof, stoppers above.


    Comments on Left Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jeremy Monahan
    From: Fort Fun, CO
    May 18, 2002

    This was my first trad climb. Pretty cool! There is an ancient cam stuck in the crack below the roof. Tried to yank it out, but it wouldn't budge. Oh well.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 27, 2004
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Good route. Felt pretty easy for a 5.9 rating though. Roof protects well. Definitely a lot easier than the "5.9+ thin crack" route that exits the right part of the roof.
    By Matt Chan
    From: Boulder
    Mar 29, 2005
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Good gear makes this route a breeze. Down low, a couple of good wires and maybe a TCU in a pin scar. A number 3 camalot above and right of the overhang is bomber and a big stopper behind the expanding flake will sew it up well. Be careful not to set the stopper to deep behind the flake, you might not get it back. Feels no harder than some of the older routes in the 7+ range in BoCan (Owl, Cozyhang, Empor).
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Apr 1, 2010
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    Though I don't believe in "+" ratings for 7s, Chan has it right; this route, really, is a breeze--especially for those with monkey arms (though my shorter partner crushed it anyway on lead). I call this down an "8," though, against the grain, I also upgraded the 10a on the right to 10b.
    By Jim Fox
    From: Westminster, CO
    Oct 5, 2014
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Fun climb. I thought the lower part was the hardest. Probably easier if you use the left bulge, but that is "off limits". The roof was pretty easy and the crack above easier than the start. Still felt like 5.9 to me or maybe 5.9+. Probably easier for climbers with longer arms.
    By Vaughn
    From: Colorado
    Jun 8, 2016

    Warning! The roof is made up of three or four detached blocks which look ready to let loose. Even avoiding them by pulling on the left side requires pulling on a large block which is resting on a sloping ledge. If these blocks came off, they could potentially reach the road. This route should probably be avoided. You can go right at the roof to climb "thin crack" instead although that requires some tricky gear to protect the crux.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About