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Banana Cracks
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Baby Banana T 
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Left Banana Crack T 
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Left Banana Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jon Lonne, Dave Ohlson, and Martin McBirney, April 1976
Page Views: 3,020
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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matt on left banana crack


The Banana Cracks can be a good place to climb on a cold day, as the formation somewhat blocks out the wind. The Left Banana Crack is a fun, short, well protected finger and hand crack, with a mild overhang.


The Banana Cracks are unmistakable. They are about four feet apart at the start, and then diverge as the right one arches out under a roof. Scramble up from the left to get to the large ledge at the base of the cracks.


Gear to 3 inches

Photos of Left Banana Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left Banana Crack
Left Banana Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Left Banana Crack
Left Banana Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: "Left Banana Crack" follows the left-han...
BETA PHOTO: "Left Banana Crack" follows the left-han...
Rock Climbing Photo: Corey at what is probably the awkward crux.
Corey at what is probably the awkward crux.

Comments on Left Banana Crack Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 8, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Short but SWEET. Excellent jamming leads to a nice stance below the crux - which is exiting the crack. A high hand jam and a long reach with the left hand to some edges will see you past the crux.

Felt soft for the grade for JTree.

Gear: two of each camalots #0.5-#3 (2 or 3 pieces are for the top anchor), and a green or yellow alien are plenty.

We descended climbers-right all the way to the base.
By Nick Barczak
Feb 2, 2009

I thought this climb felt more like 5.10a than 5.10c.
By gregory huey
From: Irvine, CA
Feb 6, 2009

On a cool winters day these cracks - although they are pretty short - can be a nice place to climb in the sun and out of the wind. I would call this a 10c - the crux felt significantly harder than that on Tinker Toy or Taxman, which are rated 10b in my guidebook.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The easiest 5.10 at Jtree for a crack climber. The ease of grade, the simple and good protection, and excellent stances for protection and rest make this a great choice for the budding "5.10" leader.
By Russ Walling
Jan 5, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not sure about that "easiest 10 at JTree" part. It is short, steep-ish and mildly awkward right in the middle. I'm thinking the crux is getting onto the big jug on the arete about mid height. The top-out was solid and features some slammer hand/fist stuff.

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