REI Community
The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ahab T 
Amputee Love T 
Buffoon T 
C'est What? S 
Clementine T 
Dihedral One T 
Dihedral Two T 
East Slabs T 
Fight Gone Bad T 
Finger Crack T 
Free Speech S 
Gumbo T 
Gut Feeling T 
Horangutan T 
Jack The Ripper T 
Jim Crack T 
Kid's Climb T 
Left Arete T 
M aka The Divine Ms. M T 
Martindale T 
Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 

Left Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Ament & Pfeffer, 1980
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    On the left side of the West face of the Whale's Tail, start up route #1, West Crack. As soon as the face to the left becomes broad, head up left and out on the face, near or on the arete which caps the Jack The Ripper roof. The climb is edging and smearing on good holds and good, but sometimes distant gear. A good leader will probably not get hurt on a fall, so I call it "S-" (edit: now known at PG-13).

    There are fixed anchors at the top of Jack... so one can rap off.

    This route IS worth going to do, but the novice crowd which frequents the area routes West Crack and West Dihedral may be in the way.


    Small-medium nuts and cams + tricams. The route is rated S in the books, but it is not terribly runout. I consider it a reasonable lead.

    Comments on Left Arete Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 20, 2005

    Climbed this route last weekend and found the 'S' rating a bit inappropriate. There was certainly gear every now and then but unfortunately it was VERY small nuts and cams behind flakes that I really did not trust (rotting or just way too thin.) I was also freaked out that it seemed like I was the first one to do the route in a year, [considering] how lichen covered and chalkless it was. Almost all of my feet I opted for smears because I did not trust any of the 'real' footholds. On the other hand my girlfriend seconded it and said she absolutely loved the climbing and the exposure is definitely cool. Unfortunately I was too scared whether that last crappy little nut and rotting flake were going to hold to enjoy the route.

    By Chris Zeller
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 19, 2009

    This is a fun route and a good alternative to the easier routes on the face.

    It's a bit of a "one-move-wonder" though. The only move that I felt was 5.8 was moving around the large block/flake that puts you out on the arete. Then it's 5.6 to the top. There was good pro under the flake but its definitely exposed and spooky.
    By jamandbees
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jan 25, 2015
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    Solid little route that's worth the visit if you're in the area. There are a lot of solid cam placements early on and a solid small hex placement later.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About