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Lee Vining Ice and Mixed

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Lee Vining Ice and Mixed Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 6,781'
Location: 37.94428, -119.21475 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,436
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chad umbel on Jun 3, 2007  with updates from Ian McEleney
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Lee Vining ice. Feb 2008. Bard-Harrington out du...

Description 

Lee Vining Cascade is a great ice climbing area that is located just outside of Mammoth. There are plenty of routes to climb, from single pitch to three pitch classics such as Chouinards, Spiral Staircase, The Heel Toe, and the Bard Harrington. The area recieves shade pretty much all day and starts forming usaully aroung Early November.

You can go online and type in Lee Vining ice conditions for weekly updates on how fat the ice is. The website is Sierra Mountain Guides and they post conditons for all of the classic routes. It will also tell you how to drive in from where ever you may be. There are a few nice little places in town that you can rent rooms for reasonable prices. One is called Murphys' which I usually prefer because you can get a room with three beds for about 40 to 60 bucks. Make sure you tell them your there to climb because they give ice climber discounts!

Getting There 

Lee Vining Cascade is located in the town of, you guessed it, Lee Vining. You can get exact directions on Mapquest.

Rock Climbing Photo: Lee Vining ice.  Feb 2008.  Bard-Harrington out du...
Lee Vining ice. Feb 2008. Bard-Harrington out due to fixed leak in water main. Rumor has it the pipe might spring another leak sometime soon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

36 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lee Vining Ice and Mixed

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lee Vining Ice and Mixed:
Main Line   WI3-4     Ice, 2 pitches   Main Wall
Zippo's Frozen Booger   WI5     Trad, Ice, 105'   Narrows - Left
Chouinards' Right   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Chouinards
Cave Man   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Main Wall
Center flow    WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 230'   Main Wall
Heel-Toe, Ramp Start   WI4 M6     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Heel-Toe Wall
Womp Rat   WI5     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Narrows - Left
Photoshop   WI4-     Ice, 350'   Bard Harrington Wall
Bard Harrington   WI3-4     Ice, 3 pitches, 440'   Bard Harrington Wall
Jango Fett   M8 PG13     Trad, Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 100'   Narrows - Right : Dark-Colored Cliffs
Comrad's Corner   WI4-     Ice, 115'   Chouinards
Tree Route   WI3 M3     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'   Chouinards
C3PO   WI3+     Ice, 90'   Narrows - Left
30 Seconds of Remorse   M4-5     Trad, Mixed, 1 pitch, 100'   Light-Colored Cliffs : Lower Tier
TK421   M3     Trad, Mixed, 75'   Narrows - Right : Dark-Colored Cliffs
Barbarians Near the Gate   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 550'   Bard Harrington Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lee Vining Ice and Mixed

Featured Route For Lee Vining Ice and Mixed
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Traxler grabbing a lap in a fat year.

Zippo's Frozen Booger WI5  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Narrows - Left
Though there's often a bit of ice here and there this route rarely forms enough to climb. It had been toproped by some big names before the first lead and that's probably the way most climbers will enjoy this route. The route was named by the first ascensionist after a friend who died on Mount Shasta.When it is "in" it's still quite thin and delicate in places and requires thoughtful climbing if you want to...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Lee Vining Ice and Mixed Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning light on the Dana Plateau while wait...
Early morning light on the Dana Plateau while wait...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mono lake, pink-flowering bush, and Sierra
Mono lake, pink-flowering bush, and Sierra
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Sorrick below Spiral Staircase in mixed condi...
Dave Sorrick below Spiral Staircase in mixed condi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on a lower formation (yellow jacket, upper...
Climber on a lower formation (yellow jacket, upper...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aspens in Lundy Canyon
Aspens in Lundy Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Chouinard Falls!!!
Climbers on Chouinard Falls!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Chouinard Falls!!
Chouinard Falls!!
Rock Climbing Photo: As the screw turns. Souljah 1986
As the screw turns. Souljah 1986
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of Lee vining area showing approach hike.
BETA PHOTO: Map of Lee vining area showing approach hike.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tioga Pass was open so easy hike down from route 1...
BETA PHOTO: Tioga Pass was open so easy hike down from route 1...
Rock Climbing Photo: These two formations are just below Ellery Lake. S...
BETA PHOTO: These two formations are just below Ellery Lake. S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from Tioga Road on Dec 23, 2011. Formations ...
BETA PHOTO: Taken from Tioga Road on Dec 23, 2011. Formations ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mono Lake tufas
Mono Lake tufas
Rock Climbing Photo: Tomas Huber rockin' out at the world famous Lee Vi...
Tomas Huber rockin' out at the world famous Lee Vi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Two obscure classics, Red Rocks prolific first asc...
Two obscure classics, Red Rocks prolific first asc...

Comments on Lee Vining Ice and Mixed Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian McEleney
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Jan 17, 2013
The Guidebook for this area is Eastern Sierra Ice by Robert "SP" Parker: Eastern Sierra Ice, 2nd Edition. A good photo overlay of most of the ice routes can be found here.

PLEASE DON'T CAMP(in a tent, your vehicle, or otherwise) in or near the Poole Power Plant parking. It's not allowed and it jeopardizes access. If you really want to camp out better options exist closer to and on the other side of 395. If you see other folks camping do us all a favor and (kindly) let them know what's up.
By Jackson Yip
From: San Jose, CA
Jan 21, 2016
There are also ice climbs on the north side of the canyon as well, though they are more alpine style climbing rather than the cragging on the southside. After an outing this past weekend, my climbing partner and I stumbled upon some old fixed gear that looked like something to rap off with. Upon further inspection, that being my yanking on a slinged off rock to check its strength, I snapped the band, my partner and I left some fixed tricams and new slings at 30m intervals. We were new to climbing in LV so we weren't sure if there were any set routes but we climbed the left flow which felt around WI 3-4 with some rock bands and steep snow. The route took about 3/4 rock pro and 2 screws to start on the flow. Watch out for undermined ice, it is plentiful. Raps lines are roughly in line with ascent line; watch for avalanche as this side of the canyon sees sun and heavy spindrift. (Ascent, Jan. 17, 2016)
-JPY
By Viren Perumal
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Dec 23, 2016
I will be posting weekly conditions reports in the form of video, Texts, and Photos. If you are getting out ice climbing around this area please feel free to pass along info so I can include in these weekly reports. Check out the Eastern Sierra Ice Conditions Report Here
Sierra Mountain Guides - Eastern Sierra Ice Report

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