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Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road

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Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 7,223'
Location: 37.93984, -119.1362 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 75,804
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jul 13, 2014
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Cory leading pitch 2 of the Bard Harrington

Description 

This area is situated at the northern end of the Sierra Eastside, and is unique in its nature given that it has some of the most easily accessible sport, trad, bouldering and ice climbing on cliffs that are more often than not empty.

Perhaps climbers are too eager to get to the better known climbs in Tuolumne Meadows, but make no mistake the climbing to be found west from Lee Vining along the Tioga pass is worth a visit or two.

In recent years quality sport routes have been developed on a number of cliffs along the Tioga Pass road in addition to a few bouldering areas along the valley floor.

In the cooler winter months the convenient ice climbing venues are sometimes busier than the cliffs in the summer as climbers take advantage of the easy access and fun 1 and 2 pitch climbs.

The Third Pillar of Mount Dana can be found under the Dana Plateau section.

Getting There 

From the US 395 take the CA120 west to reach all the climbing. Al the areas are located in a 10 mille stretch West of the 395/120 junction.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.3 miles from here

182 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',64],['2 Stars',76],['1 Star',26],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',5],['5.8',3],['5.9',9],['5.10',49],['5.11',30],['5.12',13],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',19],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road:
Cave Man   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Main Wall
Womp Rat   WI5     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Narrows - Left
Main Line   WI3-4     Ice, 2 pitches   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Main Wall
Zippo's Frozen Booger   WI5     Trad, Ice, 105'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Narrows - Left
Heel-Toe, Ramp Start   WI4 M6     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Heel-Toe Wall
Chouinards' Right   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Chouinards
Center flow    WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 230'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Main Wall
The Backbone   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1500'   Ellery Ridges
Gold Mind   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Ellery Dam Spillway Crag
Third Pillar, Regular Route   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   Dana Plateau
Hummingbird   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Quaking Aspen Wall
Barbarians Near the Gate   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 550'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Bard Harrington Wall
Tastes Great   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : The Gold Wall
The Speed of Life   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 265'   Ellery Bowl
Joint Effort    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Tioga Wall
Bag O' Tricks   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 90'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Tioga Wall
Less Filling   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 80'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : The Gold Wall
Stones Throw   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 90'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Tioga Wall
Master Cylinder   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R     Sport, 90'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Tioga Wall
Silver Bullet   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Tioga Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road

Featured Route For Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road
Rock Climbing Photo: Barry racking up for Cave Man.

Cave Man WI5  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Main Wall
Cave Man is the most difficult pure ice route in Lee Vining Canyon. It's the right-most route on the Main Wall. The first pitch starts up a nice 50 foot stretch of off-vertical ice. There's a bolted belay (sometimes hidden behind ice) if you decide the curtain doesn't look so good after all. Otherwise head up the steep and sustained curtain. Stop at a stance with a bolted anchor just over 30m up. Step left off the anchor and continue to the top. How far left you move before heading up will vary ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road Add Comment
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By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
May 26, 2016
Yesterday I published a new updated and much revised version of a Climber's Guide to Ellery Lake Bowl (MorComm: 2016). 31 pages. All color. ISBN 978-0965023450. MSRP $19.95. It's available on Amazon at:

amazon.com/Climbers-Guide-Elle...

And will soon be available at Planet Granite and Touchstone climbing gyms in the greater Bay Area. REI should be handling it too.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
May 31, 2017
On May 12, 2017 MorComm Press published an expanded 2nd edition of the Rock Climber's Guide to Ellery Lake Bowl with new sections devoted to Ellery Ridges, Warren Towers, the Pyramid and the Sphinx. It's now available at Maximus Press online in Bishop, California and on amazon.com Books:

amazon.com/Climbers-Guide-Elle...

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