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Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road

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Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.93984, -119.1362 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jul 13, 2014
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Description 

This area is situated at the northern end of the Sierra Eastside, and is unique in its nature given that it has some of the most easily accessible sport, trad, bouldering and ice climbing on cliffs that are more often than not empty.

Perhaps climbers are too eager to get to the better known climbs in Tuolumne Meadows, but make no mistake the climbing to be found west from Lee Vining along the Tioga pass is worth a visit or two.

In recent years quality sport routes have been developed on a number of cliffs along the Tioga Pass road in addition to a few bouldering areas along the valley floor.

In the cooler winter months the convenient ice climbing venues are sometimes busier than the cliffs in the summer as climbers take advantage of the easy access and fun 1 and 2 pitch climbs.

The Third Pillar of Mount Dana can be found under the Dana Plateau section.

Getting There 

From the US 395 take the CA120 west to reach all the climbing. Al the areas are located in a 10 mille stretch West of the 395/120 junction.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.3 miles from here

182 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',65],['2 Stars',74],['1 Star',27],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',5],['5.8',3],['5.9',9],['5.10',49],['5.11',30],['5.12',13],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',19],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road:
Photoshop   WI4-     Ice, 350'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Bard Harrington Wall
Center flow    WI4     Ice, 2 pitches, 230'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Main Wall
Main Line   WI3-4     Ice, 2 pitches   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Main Wall
Chouinards' Right   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Chouinards
Bard Harrington   WI3-4     Ice, 3 pitches, 440'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Bard Harrington Wall
Heel-Toe, Ramp Start   WI4 M6     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Heel-Toe Wall
Womp Rat   WI5     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Narrows - Left
Zippo's Frozen Booger   WI5     Trad, Ice, 105'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Narrows - Left
Cave Man   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Main Wall
The Backbone   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1500'   Ellery Ridges
Gold Mind   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Ellery Dam Spillway Crag
Third Pillar, Regular Route   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   Dana Plateau
Hummingbird   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Quaking Aspen Wall
Barbarians Near the Gate   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 550'   Lee Vining Ice and Mixed : Bard Harrington Wall
Tastes Great   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : The Gold Wall
The Speed of Life   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 265'   Ellery Bowl
Bag O' Tricks   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 90'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Tioga Wall
Stones Throw   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 90'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Tioga Wall
Master Cylinder   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R     Sport, 90'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Tioga Wall
Silver Bullet   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : Tioga Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road

Featured Route For Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road
Rock Climbing Photo: Photoshop.

Photoshop WI4-  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Bard Harrington Wall
Often confused with The Chimney Route. These two routes are easily and commonly amalgamated depending on where the good ice is.The salient feature of Photoshop is the usually thinly-iced right facing corner that forms the left side of the prominent slot. Climb up to this corner and through it, passing a fixed pin. Continue up moderate ice (and possibly over a snow covered rock step) to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road Add Comment
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By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
May 26, 2016
Yesterday I published a new updated and much revised version of a Climber's Guide to Ellery Lake Bowl (MorComm: 2016). 31 pages. All color. ISBN 978-0965023450. MSRP $19.95. It's available on Amazon at:

amazon.com/Climbers-Guide-Elle...

And will soon be available at Planet Granite and Touchstone climbing gyms in the greater Bay Area. REI should be handling it too.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
May 31, 2017
On May 12, 2017 MorComm Press published an expanded 2nd edition of the Rock Climber's Guide to Ellery Lake Bowl with new sections devoted to Ellery Ridges, Warren Towers, the Pyramid and the Sphinx. It's now available at Maximus Press online in Bishop, California and on amazon.com Books:

amazon.com/Climbers-Guide-Elle...

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