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Ledge Slant 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Charles Ciaffone on Feb 26, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Ledge Slant

Description 

This is a nice line up the rock at the far end of the first face below the stairs. The first pitch is bolted. The second pitch is worth the trip, although the middle of the pitch, where the crux is, is hard to protect.

Location 

From the ledge at the base of the stairs, look up to the right of the white streak. The top of the pitch is at the bottom of the grassy crack above, and you can see the two intermediary bolts. Pitch 2 follows the crack and then along the rib and crack network that leads up and generally right over a steep section. The third pitch runs up into the treeline where you can hike the Pilot Rock trail down, or you can angle to the right to a rappel station below the big tree.

Protection 

The first pitch is bolted. For the top pitches, small gear is all you will likely find. You can push it into a single pitch, but communication could get hard. There is a good gear belay above the steepest part, where I dropped two T.C.U.s backed up by nuts.


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