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'Lectra Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tim Gotwols, Chris Hassig seconding, early '80s
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: M Sprague on Aug 9, 2013

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Description 

High up in the gully, on the left side is a very nice looking finger crack with a steep start that leads up to an arete. Long thought to be an abandoned project, recently this was given a scrub, a bolt at the top and bottom and given an "FA" and a name. Oops. It turns out this was previously climbed by Tim Gotwols and Chris Hassig in the early 1980's and later given an anchor by Brady Libby. Fun climbing, with a pumpy steep section..worth the extra hike up if you are in the area and it protects well with only a small handful of gear.

The original line traversed in to the base of the crack via a thin seam (probably bumps the grade up a little), and then escaped left near the top, with the second doing the direct finish with a top belay. The added bolt at the bottom protects a fun direct start and the one at the top protects the final run to the anchors.

Location 

almost at the very top of the gully, on the left side, left of the glue-in bolted face climb.

Protection 

2 bolts, a few finger tip sized nuts and cams. A blue #1 Mastercam is great after the first bolt and the orange one at the top of the crack, bolted anchor (just bare hangers atm)


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 9, 2013

This is the one that a bunch of us who like to explore have looked at and wondered about, but nobody seems to know who put the anchors in. Judging by the fact that the hangers are the same as are on Hard Times, I am guessing they are ones that Jim Shimberg put in and abandoned or forgot about. I put a couple bolts in so it would protect well and you could climb directly up the fun steep start below the crack, but if anybody knows that this was previously climbed and the FAist would like them removed, I used Rawl bolts so I can easily take them out. I think they are nice to have though.

Currently the anchor is just bare hangers. I'll bring something to put on them next time I go back.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 9, 2013

NICE ive been looking at that line for years :)
i thought it would be harder...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 9, 2013

It is hard for me to grade, knowing all the holds minutely after cleaning so it awaits consensus. 9+ pretty much covers anything. It seemed about the same difficulty of the first pitch of Stewart's Crack, the only other 9+ trad route I could think that I have done recently.
The very top (easy)could use a little more cleaning, but all the holds up there and the rest of the route are clean.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 26, 2013

It turns out this is an old Tim Gotwols route, not the first to be later given a new "First Ascent" (example - the classic Cold Shoulder aka Smokestack at the New Wave). Tim has been quite prolific in his new routing at Rumney, especially of the crack lines in the 80s and 90s, but being fairly quiet about his accomplishments, proper attribution has been sometimes lost to the general climbing community.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 19, 2013

I just got off the phone from chatting with Tim and he is fine with the bolts. He did it in the very early 80s, with Chris Hassig seconding him and called it 'Lectra Crack. He traversed into the crack from the right then traversed out of it to the left before the top arete. The two new bolts protect a direct start and finish.

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