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Arete, The S 
Blue Velvet S 
Cliff Nazi S 
Corner, The S 
cracker jack T 
El Nino S 
Guchi S 
Lech S 
Mocè S 
Pillar of Pummel S 
Pokey S 
Rational Expectation S 
Roof, The S 
Side Straddle Hop S 
Sloopy S 
Squeeze S 
Tree Route, The S 
Warm Up S 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Probably John Hymer
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Apr 7, 2014

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This challenging line will test you in a variety of styles of climbing, a tough boulder problem on Tunnel Slopers, insecure crimping over a small overhang, a roof on jugs, and a final insecure mantel. If you can send this, you should be well equipped for any sport 12a in NM.

After stickclipping the first bolt, start with a challenging boulder problem, to a few moves of crack or layback climbing. After the second bolt an easier section leads to the third bolt. Get psyched, figure out how to clip the fourth bolt, and head up on decent sloping crimps over the bulge. Continue up on easy ground past the next two bolts, where some Rifle style trickery might allow you to get some great rests. Figure out how to pass the 7th bolt, pull hero moves on jugs passing the roof, to be faced with a final heartbreaking crux a difficult mantel to get to the anchors.


Between "The Arete" and "Sloopy".


8 Bolts to Anchors. Stickclip, watch the gate on the rope end draw of the last bolt, If it is a short draw the rock may lever it open.

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