||Trad, 5 pitches, 770', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Andy Ross, Shingo Ohkawa Paul Ross, Gene Vallee, Russ Austin 5th March 2013 (Var Leads)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||37|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Mar 10, 2013|
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Climbs the buttress to the left of the climb Glenfiddich Regrets to finish up the castle like summit just to its south. Another alpine adventure! About a 20 minute walk from the trucks. A final gesture from a mostly Salt Lake team to steer an aging pioneer to one of his last first ascents in the US before his return to his native land. Starts up a blunt ridge via a right facing groove.
P1) Up the right facing corner to a big ledge 5.6+ 170'
P2) Scramble up a right facing corner for 200' 5.0
P3) Nice pitch. Up a short chimney to big block, over this, then up the groove past one bolt to good ledge at 170' 5.8-
P4) Easy climbing to a ledge below the summit tower 150' 5.0.
P5) On the right of the ledge, enter a groove via tricky moves at the start, and then continue past a total of three bolts to a fine summit. Register in small cairn.
Descent: Rap on one good bolt on easy ground to the south, then scramble down over to the left (north) to find double anchors. Single rope rap. Then double rope rap down P3 . Scramble down to top of P1, then scramble right again to double anchors and single rope rap to the ground.
S Crags section . Buttress to the left (south) of Glenfiddich Regrets climb. see topos
Cams 1/2" to 3"... Stoppers. Two 60m ropes
Camp at two Fingers. Photo Goodman
BETA PHOTO: Tele photo .. Chaps on top. photo Goodman
Beer at the base...what else?
On big ledge below summit tower
Paul scrabbling the starting moves of P5. Note 198...
BETA PHOTO: A)Summit of unnamed B)Climbers on the summit of Gl...