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Leaver Your Beaver 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: December 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Dec 11, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Tom on the FA of pitch 2. Yep, this is what it is ...

Description 

A long, staccato route up the left section of this crag. Cleaned up it would be a three star route.
P1: Climb the ill-defined right-facing flake and face to its right to reach a left-rising horizontal crack. Traverse 8' left and climb an unprotected, dirty, rounded rock rib to an overhang, at the point where a vertical crack runs through it. Climb through the overhang via the crack, then weave upward using thin cracks and seams to reach a sloping belay ledge. 80'
P2: Climb a pair of cracks and the slab between them to a wide crack, and take it to another sloped, wooded ledge. 50'
P3: Climb a left-leaning diagonal crack and corner to low-angled slab, then climb directly up the right side of the seam on gorgeous black rock. 100'

Location 

At a diminutive right-facing flake, 20' left of and below the lower end of a left-facing corner that jogs leftward to become an overhang. The rock here is currently very dirty.

Protection 

Full Adk Trad Rack; doubles of #1 and #2 C4s. A 4" cam comes in very handy. No anchors or fixed gear anywhere on this route; rappel from trees.


Photos of Leaver Your Beaver Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom readies to pull the initial overhang of P1, on...
Tom readies to pull the initial overhang of P1, on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom on the FA of the first pitch. Note the filthy ...
Tom on the FA of the first pitch. Note the filthy ...

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