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The Riviera
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Abandonment T 
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Dancing Hippos T 
Devin's Dihedral T,S,TR 
Infestation T,S 
Le Nouveau Riche T,S,TR 
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Lease Agreement S 
Minstrel, The S 
Monte Carlo S 
New Lease on Life S 
Sea Breeze S 
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Splash T,S,TR 
Topless Etiquette S 
Unknown Trad Line T 
Zig Zag Crack T,TR 

Lease Agreement 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat and Azenda Thompson, 1998
Page Views: 3,407
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (137)
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At the anchor.

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  • Description 

    This is the furthest left route at The Riviera. Climb a short fingercrack (stoppers and small cams helpful) to a 3-bolt face with crystals. It would be high quality if it was twice as long.


    3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, small cams and nuts necessary for bottom 20 feet.

    Photos of Lease Agreement Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the jugs, just past the crux.  Photo by Cory Ba...
    On the jugs, just past the crux. Photo by Cory Ba...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Larson starting up the dike.
    Ben Larson starting up the dike.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just about to top out.  Notice the sewn up nature ...
    Just about to top out. Notice the sewn up nature ...

    Comments on Lease Agreement Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 20, 2017
    By Jeff Lockyer
    From: Canmore, AB
    Nov 15, 2001

    For the length is a very nice line. If only that crack were a bit longer. (like 50 feet or so) Nice hands, just above hand jamming. You must be strict about the top and try to stay in line with the bolts, as the routes on this side of the crag are squeeze jobs. Have fun on this one.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 28, 2003

    The crack is fun and has some great fingerlocks, but is over too quickly. I don't know where you got a hand jam on this route, Jeff! The upper part felt contrived and you can make it easier by not following the bolt line.
    By Joseph Proulx
    Nov 17, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I thought this route was harder than 5.9, perhaps because I am more comfortable with footwork than hands. While the finger locks in the crack are great, the move that gets you to the first bolt is quite tough, as there are no decent footholds and the crack peters out a bit. Maybe I was just off when I was there, but I did it on TR after leading it (with some aid), and still though it was a good deal tougher than other Boulder Canyon 5.9's.

    Definitely a worthwhile climb. It's ridiculously easy to place good pro below the bolts.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 5, 2004

    I thought this was a good example of a 5.9+ . The day we did it I watched two people lead it (including me) and four follow. Everyone fell off! At least once. All the same folks routinely climbed the 10a and 10bs right next to this without a fall. The deal is that the crack sucks you up with great pro (TCUs and stoppers) and then just when you go for what should be a locker hand jam the crack becomes off hand size. Once you figure this out and jam your foot in the crack instead of trying to use the face holds you can yard up and get a thumb forefinger lock in just the right place. Then its 5.9+ until you find that its solid 10 trying to go straight up on off hands and feet that are too high.
    By DavidHH
    From: Parker, Colorado
    Mar 17, 2007
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Protects very well with a green and/or yellow Alien.
    By Dean Cool
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 27, 2007

    Great crack to practice on. We climbed the next climb over to the right then left TR on this climb. I enjoyed this climb a lot but gave it a 1 star b/c the crack is not long enough and the top is too easy for the 10a grade.
    By Mark Griffin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 14, 2008

    The fixed cam is gone.
    By Nick Przybysz
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 19, 2010

    Got a nut stuck on the top of the crack while I was climbing there on Sun. If you can get it out, you're welcome to it. I tried for about 10 minutes, but it was starting to rain and booming thunder, so I left it. It's wedged in there pretty good.
    By Robbie Flick
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 18, 2011

    Fun route. There is what looks like an incredible foothold out left that would make the route a lot easier - strangely, it is super slick and almost unusable, no idea why.
    By Martin Harris
    Nov 26, 2011

    Great short climb.
    I agree if that finger crack were longer I would be great. I wonder how many times I have said that, lol. Buy great finger locks lead to easy face climbing. Gear beta: a red c3 and a #0.4 Camalot is fully enough gear for a guy like me that gets scared on Eldo 5.8.
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Feb 26, 2012
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Sweet finger crack and great ring lock to get the crux! Fun staying on the bolt line, working the vertical dike. Despite the length, still worth 3 stars, imo.
    By Hiro Kurotsuchi
    From: Colorado
    May 15, 2012

    A challenging route for me - finishing the crack in particular. Protected it with a 0.75 and 0.3 Camalot (if you're going to use a single piece, something between that would probably be best to take). The polished foothold someone else mentioned is probably the one thing that makes finishing the crack difficult. My partner stepped on it, but I couldn't for the life of me. Took me many tries to find something to hold onto above the crack - taller people will have an easier time reaching (I'm 5'9").

    Plenty of space to dump your gear below the crag and a plethora of places to lay out your rope tarp and stand for belay. Luxurious in this sense. The area is partially shaded, not nearly as exposed as the Upper.

    I think this route will be on my future re-do list for a rp.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 6, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Gah, why could't the crack be 50' longer?! Overall a fun route with a great variety of climbing styles packed into a short distance. Super safe lead as well, throw a few cams in the crack and go for it!
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Aug 22, 2013

    Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor bolts on this climb with Fixe SS double ring hangers.
    By OriginalMikeJohnson
    From: Denver
    Feb 20, 2017
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Climbed this 2/18/17 all bolts and hangers looked great. Fun climb with an early crux - enjoy!

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