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Learner's Permit 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
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Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Hiro Kurotsuchi on Aug 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: A good view of the climb. The black rock in the c...

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Description 

Learner's Permit is the far left route on the wall and the right crack on the among the prominent pair which are easily seen during approach. Begin at the bottom with a simply scramble to some thick slabs standing vertically to form the offwidth which comprises the entire route.

The route continues straight up from that point, the crack narrows about one foot back from the face during most of the route, allowing you to place gear. Gear options also exist on the sides, although I did not notice any good placements during the bulk of the middle portion of the route. Many placement opportunities exist at the top and bottom of the route.

At the top is a very large rock which seemed quite stable, you could sling it perhaps, instead I put pro in the various spaces underneath it.

Note - you don't normally rap this route, so I didn't get an idea of how long it is.

At the time of this writing (August 2012), there are various loose rocks and holds all the way up the route. See the condition report, be very careful - prudence would suggest staying well clear of the route (both climbers and spectators) if you don't have a helmet on your head!!! With the extra hazard and detours required, I'd rate it at least 5.7.

Location 

Look for the two parallel cracks from afar. Walk left of where the trail likely brought you up, until you find the prominent crack.

Protection 

Mabe suggests standard rack to #2 Camalot - climbing with that would be very different than how I did it. Having just climbed it, I would bring SR light on small sizes, up to #3 C4. Perhaps take multiple #3 to protect using the back of the main crack. I also used all red, gold, and blue DMM Torque Nuts (hexes). Nuts didn't seem that useful, bring a light selection maybe.


Photos of Learner's Permit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A good view of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: A good view of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me halfway up, trailing a second rope....
BETA PHOTO: Me halfway up, trailing a second rope....
Rock Climbing Photo: Testing out my learner's permit.
BETA PHOTO: Testing out my learner's permit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Learner's Permit from the ground....
BETA PHOTO: Learner's Permit from the ground....

Comments on Learner's Permit Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think this is more difficult than 5.5. I would say it is 5.7. I placed two #3 Camalots and even a #4. There are places for smaller gear but the big stuff made me feel good. I only placed one nut. I used the anchors above Body English to descend.

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