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Leapin' Lizards T 

Leapin' Lizards 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 222
Submitted By: Internet Hardman on May 31, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Trail Boulder and Leapin' Lizards

Description 

This crack is an absolute gem. A lot of the local crack routes are just a few jams up to some face climbing, but this thing is full on jamming for about 60 feet - easily the most sustained crack route around SLO. It also happens to be the most striking feature around, but you might not know that till you climb it.

Location 

The crack on the right side of the boulder.

Protection 

Bring it all and a lot of it! This crack just eats up gear. It's a splitter!

Bring plenty of runners to extend gear past the wide section.

Gear - Triples .5 to #5, maybe only doubles if you are comfortable running out really sustained 5.7 moves well above your placements.


Comments on Leapin' Lizards Add Comment
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By Adam Eisenbarth
Oct 13, 2015

Hello, my buddy and I went hiking and exploring on Cerro San Luis to try to find this route. I posted a picture of what we think is the route/boulder. It fits the description, I was just picturing a bigger boulder and longer route. Can someone verify this photo? And if it's not it, can someone give some more specific directions to how to get to the boulder?
Thanks!
By stbrooks
From: San Luis Obispo, California
Jan 10, 2016

Tom Slater Guide describes this route as: "A fun hand crack about 20' long."