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Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
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Brazier Food T 
Chili Dog T 
Double Delight T 
Faith Healer T 
Five Tree T 
Foot Massage, The T 
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 
Gomez T 
Leap Erickson T 
Leap of Faith T 
Leap Year Flake T 
Look Before You Leap T 
Lurch T 
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 
Morticia T 
Norm S 
Pat Adams Dihedral T 
Pugsley S 
Snake Oil T 
Tabby Tree T 
Tofutti T 
Toxic Waltz T 
Wednesday's Child T 

Leap Year Flake 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, February 1988
Page Views: 4,152
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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Leap Year Flake


Climb a thin crack with face holds for about forty feet, then step left and undercling/lieback a thin flake that curves up and left ending on a large ledge beneath the previously mentioned corner.

Expect fun climbing on high quality rock in a relatively uncrowded area, as this side of the Dairy Queen Wall sees little action. Well worth doing as along with a number of the other routes here. Two stars out of five.


This fun and somewhat unique climb is located on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall more or less directly below the prominent, overhanging corner of Pat Adams Dihedral.


Gear to 2", including wires

Photos of Leap Year Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily following Leap Year Flake
Emily following Leap Year Flake
Rock Climbing Photo: The top of Leap year flake, use big gear 1-4 to pr...
The top of Leap year flake, use big gear 1-4 to pr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top.
Nearing the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leap Year Flake
Leap Year Flake
Rock Climbing Photo: Close up
BETA PHOTO: Close up
Rock Climbing Photo: Leap Year Flake
BETA PHOTO: Leap Year Flake
Rock Climbing Photo: Leap Year Flake
BETA PHOTO: Leap Year Flake

Comments on Leap Year Flake Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 28, 2017
By Dynomight510
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The pro overall is great however there is one section a bit before you reach the flake that is thin. I used a #3 Camp Ball nutz because a tri cam would not fit. The grade is not beyond 5.7 though.

Shot and sweet. Good moves. Good rock.

Not sustained.
By tony grice
May 2, 2006

WOW!!! as fun as 5.7 gets. bring plenty in the .5 size , and a few small wires, if 5.7 is your max. Well protected
By seamstress
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The comment "somewhat unique climb" almost scared me off, but it was a sweet little climb. It felt more like a Tuolumne or Tahoe route than JT - smearing & stemming; crack technique not really needed. The flake sounds a bit hollow so check carefully before you place your gear.
By C Miller
From: CA
Oct 5, 2008

An alternate (and harder) start to this route is to climb Leap Erickson to it's 4th bolt and then cut right on the sloping ledge to reach the base of the flake system. Extending the 1st placement or two will cut down on any rope drag you might otherwise encounter.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 7, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Agree with Tony Grice on pro. A really great finish up the flake, something to savor. I'd say it's one of the must do 5.7's in The Park.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think this is one of my all time favorite 5.7's. It is simply amazingly fun! Definite must do while in the area.
By JSharpe
Nov 18, 2012

didn't care for the 1st half, but the flake was super cool. rap from chains about 20 ft to your right past the tree.
By Brian Allen
From: Palm Desert
Apr 4, 2013

The thin section protected well with a 0 mastercam or similar. Much thinner than it looked from the bottom. Didn't use anything bigger than a #1 C4.
By Russ Walling
Jul 21, 2013

Just did it.... Good stuff! Med cams to belay right under the Pat Adams Dihedral. Scramble down to rap anchors to climbers right on a slab just past a tree/bush.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 21, 2013

^^^^ actually the anchor at the base of PAD takes 3.5" down to .5" - it's a gem! And agree with Tony, head up with plenty of 1/2" cams or you'll be stuck with either nuts in the flake or running it out. :)
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Mar 19, 2017

This route is a gem! Pure climbing fun. Plenty of feet so you don't have to really pull too hard on the thin flake. I don't think I actually used any layback moves at all.
By Charlie Richardson
Mar 28, 2017

I'm a dumbass and left my favorite climbing shoes, an old pair of Anasazi Blancos, at the base of Pugsley which is underneath the rap station for Leap Year Flake. If you have them I'll buy you beer, whiskey, or drugs. If you're clean then I'll name my first child after you.

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