Leap of Faith
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Entering the crack and moving past the bulge makes up the crux with easier climbing directly above, which soon turns more difficult and ends with a thin bolted slab move to the chains.
An obvious bouldery finger to hands crack to the left of Easy Pickins and right of Pearly Gates.
Pro to 2, mostly smaller.
From: Wenatchee, WA
Sep 18, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I always chuckle when I see a pile of rocks at the base of this crack. Even cheating, this bouldery start is difficult! Think 5.11a or b is fair. Very height dependent. Grounding out is easy if you blow the continuous crux moves, even on top rope. The starting crack also loves to shred rope sheaths if you top rope it, so be forewarned.
Sep 20, 2015
Yeah it's definitely not over when you're off the ground. The rock pile could help get you started in the crack if you can't reach it, but you've got some moves to do after that.
10.d is a funny grade. I wouldn't argue with .10d, but I'd also agree on your .11-