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Leaning Tower Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ken Rose, Kenny Stearns 1974
Page Views: 1,892
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Oct 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Jordan following the second pitch of Leaning Tower...

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>


Climbing the lower slab section is the real crux. Some thin moves on small gear, then the crack opens back up and leads to a belay stance in the corner (mid to large gear), then up the chimney section up and exit right.


From the primary base area below Leaning Tower. Follow the trail up and left and then scramble through some ledges to the right until your below the main ramp of Leaning Tower. The route follows the the left facing corner all the way up the tower.


.5"-2" gear on the lower slab. Good Nuts. Take a fatty for the chimney section up top. A #4 Camalot is handy!

Photos of Leaning Tower Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jordan getting ready to pull the crux on the first...
BETA PHOTO: Jordan getting ready to pull the crux on the first...

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By Drom
May 3, 2015

If belaying a second from above it would be best to sling a boulder directly above the chimney instead of using the anchors on lycra sheath due to the potential for a large swing. A high cam redirect would work too.
By Web Brunsteter
Feb 6, 2017

The lichen/moss on the slab is extremely slick when wet. Same for Captain Crunch.

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