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Leaning Chimney T 
Tunnel Vision T 

Leaning Chimney 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: ??? T. Bubb, 2016? soloed
New Route: Yes
Season: well-shaded and would hold snow/water. So, early fall.
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 6, 2016

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  • Description 

    A short but very clean and very solid section of rock holds this fine introduction to chimney climbing. Scuttle back to the depths of the chimney to get started. Jam into the handcrack on the left or the fingercrack on the right, and place some protection if desired. Work up these while stemming or chimneying upward. The flake that produces these cracks gets more and more overhung, but the chimney is good climbing in and of itself, so the line never feels harder than maybe 5.3 or 5.4. Top out to the left or to the right as you choose. To the right, there is better opportunity for a gear belay, but to the left, you can simply go up and over the top of the chimney and back down for a good body-weight belay, then you are already 1/2 way down the walk-off.

    Location 

    This chimney lies on the North side of the West Face of the Tunnel Tower. About 10 meters from the North end, a right-leaning chimney can be seen to split the crag. That is your line.

    Protection 

    Thin hands pro on the left, finger pro on the right. Take your choice of the two. The hands is probably better as you will likely be facing the left side. Take a cordalette to belay on up top if you are not soloing.


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