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Leaning Buttress Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Fergus Graham, 1922
Page Views: 26
Submitted By: rdlennon on Oct 1, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The meat of the route.


This fun route follows a series of sloping, horizontal breaks up the face of Leaning Buttress. After a bouldery start (physical crux), a ledge is reached, after which there are several highsteps and insecure moves between the breaks (psychological crux). After about 20 feet off the ledge, the climb eases off and follows the slab to the top.

The climb is given HVS 4c in guides, which roughly translates to 5.9. The bottom boulder crux may feel harder for shorties, but there's really just one 5.8 move by my estimation.


The route tackles the face of the narrow, slabby protrusion (the Leaning Buttress) about 100 feet to the left of the prominent Flying Buttress. Walk off to the right of Flying Buttress.


Some of the horizontals take good cams, and there are a few nut placements in cracks and breaks. The protection is adequate, but not abundant. None of the placements are strenuous.

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