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Lean And Mean 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Grow and J. Moore. 1976.
Page Views: 2,922
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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Climber wishing he had some smaller gear at the cr...

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


Follow the obvious right facing corner right of "Over Easy". Do some roof moves and belay. Continue to top.

A great climb with the crux about two thirds up the first pitch.

This is a great route!


Pro to 2.5 in.

Photos of Lean And Mean Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Lean and Mean". Photo by Blitzo.
"Lean and Mean". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alanna contemplating the slabby crux.
BETA PHOTO: Alanna contemplating the slabby crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Here I am heading up "Lean and Mean."
Here I am heading up "Lean and Mean."

Comments on Lean And Mean Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 10, 2017
By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 2, 2009

bring your small gear
By ShaunG Gregg
From: SF, CA
Dec 23, 2009

Agreed. Nuts and small cams will do just fine. Crack starts to peter out towards the top.
By fivefun
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Roof move is quite mellow once you commit. Well protected with a blindly placed #1.
By bergbryce
From: California
Jan 8, 2012

This route seemed really un-inspiring. I was really cold however. Got to try it when it's warm.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jan 31, 2012

For me, the crux was a bit heady - decent but not great protection where you have to pull the crux slick-slabby-chimney move. Good warm-up before jumping on Fear of Flying which has sustained slick-slabby-chimney moves!
By Kyle Townsend
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 1, 2012

Great route, takes gear well, technical and physically strenuous crux. If you put in good pro before the crux, nothing to worry about, but it's heads up just enough to keep it interesting :) Roof moves are straightforward and jug-tastic, extra points for running it out to the chains!
By Phil McAllister
Nov 25, 2012

The crux protects well with a #5 black diamond nut right in the bottom so you can still get your fingers in above it. After the crux it eases up a lot and the roof is a cakewalk after the thin cracky crux
By stuart.h
From: Redwood City
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A nutty climb overall with a bit of everything. Got a good nut placement on crux, face moves, one of those squarish nut jobs would have been great. For roof move, if you go right you'll get a better view. Protected it with opposed nuts, ~1".
By Pavel Burov
From: Russia
Oct 16, 2013

A fun variation - do not use the left corner. Do the top half as a slab climb using the corner for protection only (do not finger jam!)
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 30, 2015

The roof looks intimidating from the ground but it is actually quite easy. Go for it!
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The roof was easily and protected and really easy. It was just getting to it that made the climb 5.9.
By Amanda Luu
From: Danville
Jul 10, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The crux section is before the roof on this slabby unprotected section. However, there is one teeny finger jam that isn't secure but will help you get your body positioned to move through.

The roof is surprisingly easy for how it looks from the ground. There is actually a huge crack with good jugs inside.

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