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Lead Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, TR, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,251
Submitted By: Matt Wilson on Apr 9, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Phone picture of the route.

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review


The only bolted line on this wall. Start out beneath the first bolt, and climb straight up until you clip your second bolt. Then traverse right a few feet and use the protruding rock on your right to continue up. After clipping the fourth bolt, make your way to the left (you will see the fifth bolt). There is no anchor, but the top out is easy enough to walk up. Top out, and repel off the tree. Currently, there is a sixth bolt over the top out which lacks a hanger.


On the right as you approach the cliff. The only bolted line, it will be obvious.


5 bolts, no anchor except a tree.

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By Bennett LaFond
Oct 14, 2016

Highly doubt this is a 5.8. A friend and I tried it, both generally lead 5.10b confidently and climb 5.12a in the gym, and it took us a few tries. Hard move at the start and sketchy hold to clip from on the 3rd bolt with ground fall possible. I'd guess this is more like a 10b with a little bit of freakout factor added in.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Nov 21, 2016

It's been so long now it's hard to remember, but I don't really remember having any issues with this route, and I've never lead anything close to a 12 in the gym, and only a few outdoor 10's. Maybe something has broken since I climbed it?
By Bennett LaFond
Apr 13, 2017

Tried this again today. Found a pocket above the 3rd bolt that kept the line straight and made the bolting feel reasonable. Still no 5.8. Maybe a 5.9 up top but the bottom 12' still have some 10a/b moves.
By Ben Beaudoin
Jul 14, 2017

I added a fixed anchor around the tree at the top with 2 rap rings. Top ropping this route is possible but it will have some serious rope drag. It's a far better lead. 5.8+

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