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Astrolizard T 
Lead-free Gut Pile T 

Lead-free Gut Pile 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 370', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Karl Kvashay and Brandon Gottung
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring and Fall are best. Aspect is sunny.
Page Views: 357
Submitted By: Brandon Gottung on Jun 29, 2015

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Getting psyched for some wild exposure! Pitch 2 fo...

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a true Zion adventure climb, even if it only clocks in at two pitches. Without doubt, an ascent of the Gut Pile will be fun and memorable! This route is fully equipped and cleaned for a safe ascent. If you carry out the rack for Astrolizard - consider bivying on the Lizard Ledge and climb this the next day - the rack is mostly the same.

P1: 5.11. 59m. Move up and right from belay, up the ramp to a ledge below a bolt and the giant flake looming above. Place a nest of gear and pull cruxy face moves, clip the bolt then get established in the flake. There is an optional comfortable belay 45 m up that's equipped with one bolt if you run out of gear and / or energy, but climb to the top of the flake for the full value experience. There are numerous protection bolts where the flake is too thin for good gear making this pitch reasonable. The top of the flake is equipped with a two bolt belay.

P2: 5.11-. 50m. Get psyched for the incredibly exposed step-across dynamic lunge into the flaring chimney. Extract yourself out and over the roof and follow the flare up to the increasingly steep corner to a two bolt belay. This pitch is wild!

Location 

See approach for Astrolizard as it starts from the same anchor. This route is the obvious giant flake to offwidth/flare left of Astrolizard.

Protection 

Double set from black alien to #3, four #4s, three or four #5s and one #6. Small set of wires w a couple brassies. A dozen slings and draws. 2 ropes, 60 m minimum.


Photos of Lead-free Gut Pile Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon on top of the 30' of glory that finishes t...
Brandon on top of the 30' of glory that finishes t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch goes on the left side of the giant...
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch goes on the left side of the giant...
Rock Climbing Photo: Karl following the steepness on P2.
Karl following the steepness on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Karl trundling on P1 FA. It has cleaned up well.
Karl trundling on P1 FA. It has cleaned up well.

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