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The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
Logan's Run S 
Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Orange S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Squeeze  S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

Lead Farmer 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Anderson, 6 Nov. 11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2011

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Lead Farmer climbs the steep groove on the left si...

Description 

Lead Farmer is the "direct" start to Observe God's Mistake. Not only substantially more difficult, this line is also substantially more enjoyable, avoiding the awkward stemming crux of OGM and adding a much nicer slab start.

Stick clip the first bolt from the ledge, then cruise up the fun slab to a great stance below the bulge. Lieback strenuously along the diagonaling rail to reach a set of good crimps and a difficult clip. A few desperate moves lead out of the scoop to a headwall of thin pockets. Work delicately back left to join OGM, and cruise the prickly slab to the anchor.

Location 

Begin at ground level, ~10 feet right of OGM, up a long gray slab.

Protection 

6 bolts to 2BA (shared with OGM). Stick clip recommended.


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